Jump to content
SAU Community

4th gear sychro worn

Sleepergm
 Share

Recommended Posts

Sleepergm Enthusiast

Sleepergm

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

 

suspect this is a common problem. I think I missed 4th gear a bit when I shifted down from 5th. Now it grinds into 4th with the downshift. Is it the sychro and what do I need to replace when I open the gear box up? 
 

added a photo of my new titanium intake I just installed and built. 👍💪

8dda622d-da7f-4c96-9082-e616d77527fa.jpeg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/485982-4th-gear-sychro-worn/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

More likely you've taken the teeth off the gear. Not the helical main gear teeth - the little pointed teeth that are what actually engages the gear. These work with the synchro rings, but they are not the synchro rings. The synchros are the brakes that allow those teeth to mesh.

Anyway, it's very unlikley that you've worn the synchro, much more likely that the points are knocked off the teeth.

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, Sleepergm said:

Hi all,

 

suspect this is a common problem. I think I missed 4th gear a bit when I shifted down from 5th. Now it grinds into 4th with the downshift. Is it the sychro and what do I need to replace when I open the gear box up? 
 

added a photo of my new titanium intake I just installed and built. 👍💪

8dda622d-da7f-4c96-9082-e616d77527fa.jpeg

IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly.

If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point.

Sleepergm Enthusiast

Sleepergm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

IMO just buy a whole R33 transmission and swap the whole thing. Use a palm nailer/air hammer with a roll pin punch to drive the shifter rod end roll pins out. The rod end is discontinued so don't break it. Use gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket instead of RTV. I personally would not pry on the shifter cover tabs, I broke one trying that instead of just smacking the side with a dead blow rubber mallet to shock it loose from the RTV the last mechanic applied. If you can't get the flanges totally clean and free of any residual RTV and/or you might have a gap that is bigger than it should due to flange damage use RTV on that surface instead of the OEM specced anaerobic sealer. Anaerobic sealer is most likely the right sealant for the job, it's just too easy to mess it up with too large a gap or bad surface prep/roughness seemingly.

If you do rebuild what you have it's for a whole gearset that can take high torque. Don't bother with OEM at that point.

I was actually just planning on replacing the fourth gear parts in the gear box that I broke … like the synchro hub or cone. And any other parts I need once I open up the transmission. That a bad idea? The rest of the gears feel tight. these parts shouldn’t be too much … just the labour here won’t be cheap. Just replacing these in HK would be around 2k aud including labour. 
 

how much is a new r33 or r32 transmission? 
 

thanks for the good info as usual 
 

 

 

joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:

I was actually just planning on replacing the fourth gear parts in the gear box that I broke … like the synchro hub or cone. And any other parts I need once I open up the transmission. That a bad idea? The rest of the gears feel tight. these parts shouldn’t be too much … just the labour here won’t be cheap. Just replacing these in HK would be around 2k aud including labour. 
 

how much is a new r33 or r32 transmission? 
 

thanks for the good info as usual 
 

 

 

32010-RHR30 is the Nismo Heritage transmission. I paid 1500 USD or so for mine.

  • Thanks 1
joshuaho96 Veteran

joshuaho96

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Sleepergm said:

I see on rhdjapan they are under 1500 usd but is that a complete replacement for my transmission? Or just the case? 
 

the r34 getrag transmission swap is like 15k usd lol. 

It is the entire transmission BUT you must swap in your old transfer case. There is no transfer case on the back of it. Comes with throwout bearing for the OEM pull clutch and Super Coppermix Twin pull clutch, new clutch fork, pivot, cotter pin, washer, and clutch fork boot as well.

Keep in mind shipping is killer for such a giant piece of metal. I got mine from Trust Kikaku USA which shipped a container full of them to Long Beach and I had to pick it up from their warehouse.

  • Thanks 1
Sleepergm Enthusiast

Sleepergm

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

It is the entire transmission BUT you must swap in your old transfer case. There is no transfer case on the back of it. Comes with throwout bearing for the OEM pull clutch and Super Coppermix Twin pull clutch, new clutch fork, pivot, cotter pin, washer, and clutch fork boot as well.

Keep in mind shipping is killer for such a giant piece of metal. I got mine from Trust Kikaku USA which shipped a container full of them to Long Beach and I had to pick it up from their warehouse.

What’s the labour like on it? And how much better is it than the stock one? Guessing a lot stronger. 
 

I would be shipping from Japan to Hong Kong so not that bad… 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, Sleepergm said:

What’s the labour like on it?

About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R.

11 hours ago, Sleepergm said:

And how much better is it than the stock one?

? It is stock.

12 hours ago, Sleepergm said:

ear parts in the gear box that I broke … like the synchro hub or cone

I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...