How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

[jacobzking]

I'm looking at the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU for my 93 R33 GTST.  With the base map loaded, should it be a plug n play with similar tune to OEM?  Or do they really need to be tuned, even on an otherwise stock car (intake, turbo-back exhaust)?  I do have an AEM wideband to monitor AFRs.

Also, I'm assuming I can use my Bosch sensor that's already installed on my downpipes (just before the high flow cat)?

Any tips for setting the thing up?  Other "upgrades" to consider to the ECU (z32 or r35 MAF)?  

Any info would be appreciated.  Thanks!!!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

It is plug and play, load up the base map and off you go.

Throw the stock MAF(s) into the bin and run an intake manifold vacuum/boost reference to the ECU.

Preferably to run it to an external MAP sensor.

Get a Haltech CANbus wideband.

[Murray_Calavera]

If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU.

The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform. 

I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 

[jacobzking]

10 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU.

The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform. 

I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 

best advice yet.  so between the elite and the nexus... much of a difference?  cost is damn near identical (only $170 difference).  thank you!!!

[Duncan]

12 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU.

The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform. 

I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 

Yeah I agree. I have the Plat Pro on the race car because plug in was important, but I wouldn't buy one for a current car. While they are still happy to sell them (pretty expensive), they don't support them any more; no software updates since about 1996, limited or no support for newer features on the CAN etc etc

[Murray_Calavera]

3 hours ago, jacobzking said:

best advice yet.  so between the elite and the nexus... much of a difference?  cost is damn near identical (only $170 difference).  thank you!!!

Haltech have a nice comparison table between the Elite and Nexus models - 

https://www.haltech.com/ecu-buyers-guide/

In general, the Nexus is better. Haltech have some nice product videos on their YouTube page, I'd have a look at those and if you're still not confident what way to go, I'd give them a call. They have the best customer support of any company I've dealt with, I'm sure they'll be able to help you out. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Very true, if buying new, I would not get an PP either.

Minimum is an Elite 2500, which is also considered outdated.

Get something that supports DBW, delete that cable throttle. Best thing I've ever done to the Skyline, next best is refreshing the A/C with a new condenser. It's cold, but not as cold as modern car, but colder than most 90s JDM shit boxes imported into Australia.

[joshuaho96]

Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.

[Watermouse]

6 hours ago, jacobzking said:

best advice yet.  so between the elite and the nexus... much of a difference?  cost is damn near identical (only $170 difference).  thank you!!!

I just bought the Nexus S3 for my gtt, haven’t installed it yet as I’m collecting parts to do everything at once…so far spent $14,000

The Nexus is nearly future proof

[Murray_Calavera]

7 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

Only reason to keep a MAF on your RB25 is to be able to easily calculate true VE if you know what the factory voltage curve represents in grams per second of flow. Also allows you to do things like pull the original OEM ignition + AFR target tables and use those as a starting point for your base map. Once you're well and truly done tuning though there's no need to retain the MAF.

I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol. 

The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)