Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago

Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars 

New DBA calipers, discs and pads

Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's

20241224_184757.thumb.jpg.9e1b76dda37abe81d09502f7c170e0d4.jpg

Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake 

Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques 

Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street

The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising 

But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot

20241214_161237.thumb.jpg.9fee8c0861213dd933614062ee483e2d.jpg

Why is dose so appealing 

All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪

20241224_184725.thumb.jpg.a3b0c1794b5d57fecf858a6298ce2ca9.jpg

 

  • Like 5
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/
Share on other sites

Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please

I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013

Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit

Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm

The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing 

It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86

From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will

0.64:

spools faster = good

Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad

Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions 

0.86:

Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm

Makes less EGT heat = good

Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200

Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises 

I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well

Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣

 

the-castle-farouk.thumb.gif.0bd20237d18d3c4936c48848844adb5e.gif

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996089
Share on other sites

This should be pretty easy.

200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo.

These things have like a .48 rear.

You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996093
Share on other sites

No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit.

However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter.

Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes).

If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996096
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, The Bogan said:

Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please

I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013

Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit

Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm

The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing 

It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86

From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will

0.64:

spools faster = good

Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad

Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions 

0.86:

Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm

Makes less EGT heat = good

Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200

Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises 

I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well

Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣

 

the-castle-farouk.thumb.gif.0bd20237d18d3c4936c48848844adb5e.gif

 

STOP GOOGLING

FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758.

DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW.

IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996101
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

STOP GOOGLING

FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758.

DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW.

IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.

I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996102
Share on other sites

I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it. 

I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000. 

My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+. 

Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996106
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it. 

I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000. 

My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+. 

Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive :)

This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about

The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do

And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe), where in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give

My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit, and was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea

So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍

The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996108
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

STOP GOOGLING

FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758.

DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW.

IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.

 

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit.

However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter.

Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes).

If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.

 

 

 

 

7 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it. 

I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000. 

My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+. 

Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive :)

This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about

The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do

And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe.....EDIT... nope, the Kraken is a cast jobbie, the REv9 uses welded up stainless, plus $8000 AUD before shipping, installation and tuning)

Where else in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give

My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit that Pulse fitted, and it was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea

So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍

The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996109
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit.

PULSAR PSR2860R 0.86A/R or 0.64 GEN 2 Turbocharger

Both are -50*67mm 8 blade billet compressor wheel

Cheers

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996110
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

PULSAR PSR2860R 0.86A/R or 0.64 GEN 2 Turbocharger

Both are -50*67mm 8 blade billet compressor wheel

Cheers

 

What kind of power delivery are you after?

If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun.

I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred.

Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs.... 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996112
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What kind of power delivery are you after?

If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun.

I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred.

Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs.... 

Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car

I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right???

I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics 

Cheers for the useful information 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996113
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, The Bogan said:

Cheers for the info mate, I'm old too, 60 years old next May, so a more linear delivery of the 0.86 would be better as baking tyres and snapping heads isn't on the cards for me or the car

I assume a more linear power delivery would be better for engine and drivetrain reliability as well, IRT the torque load at lower RPM???, as well as lower EGT's???, if my understanding of that is correct, have I got that right???

I've only got a really basic understanding of turbo sizing and all there characteristics 

Cheers for the useful information 

Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it.

It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5.

And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486007-nc-mx5/#findComment-7996114
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...