Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer.

I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean.

In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros. 

Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway?
I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486068-r32-gts-rb20de-clogged-cat/
Share on other sites

I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes.

Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"

 

  • Thanks 1

The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.

 

If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.

 

Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.

 

The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.

 

For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car.

If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed. :)

  • Thanks 1

Appreciate the feedback. It is street car, but not a daily.

Last week I got a quote from a good exhaust shop for a decat, one which is bolt-on, bolt-off to be easily replaceable. I got quoted for around €150.

On 19/01/2025 at 3:42 AM, MBS206 said:

If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.

I usually do push the motor, but I wasn't in this case to make sure that no damage is done until I get the cat sorted.

I think it's best to also ask the exhaust shop for the other option and see what they can do.

If (big if) I were to decat though, would it be best to tune the car or would the stock ECU handle it? As far as I know, the stock ECU is not tunable and that would require additional purchases.

10 hours ago, GabsReDeal said:

Appreciate the feedback. It is street car, but not a daily.

Last week I got a quote from a good exhaust shop for a decat, one which is bolt-on, bolt-off to be easily replaceable. I got quoted for around €150.

I usually do push the motor, but I wasn't in this case to make sure that no damage is done until I get the cat sorted.

I think it's best to also ask the exhaust shop for the other option and see what they can do.

If (big if) I were to decat though, would it be best to tune the car or would the stock ECU handle it? As far as I know, the stock ECU is not tunable and that would require additional purchases.

Stock ECU has compensation, you won't damage the engine. Personally I recommend getting an acceptable catalytic converter, it doesn't need to be OEM and super expensive but a cheap universal one to keep it from being super obnoxious to be around. Decatted cars smell pretty awful.

  • Thanks 1
50 minutes ago, PLYNX said:

sulphur dioxide

Nah. H2S.

H2S is "rotten egg gas", which is what is associated with no cat.

SO2 is equally nasty, and if you've ever smelt it you'll know all about it. More of a choking, acid in the back of the throat sort of thing. But you can only smell it in a narrow range up to about 1ppm. Above that, it irritates your mucous membranes, but you don't smell it.

On 20/01/2025 at 11:37 AM, niZmO_Man said:

Should be able to source 200 cell R32 cat... unsure how easy it would be to get it to Malta though.

Yes shipping here can be a pain, was about to purchase timing belt replacement kit, but it tends to get expensive due to shipping (and customs if importing from non-EU which the UK now falls under).

  • Like 1

Just a quick update: I decided to go ahead with the de-cat for now. The exhaust shop inspected the catalytic converter and said it was in good condition. I took a look myself, and it does not appear broken nor clogged.

After the de-cat, the car feels more responsive and smoother. The shop also reinstalled the exhaust temperature sensor into the de-cat pipe, and now the warning light no longer comes on, even when driving hard.

The only thing that’s bugging me is the tinny, “can-like” sound the exhaust makes now (similar to having a hole in the muffler). The shop suggested that I might need to replace the muffler.

I'll have to think on what to do next.

 

On 27/01/2025 at 2:06 PM, niZmO_Man said:

get a 200 cell cat

Will ask the exhaust shop about this and get a quote if possible. My current pipe is with flanges and not welded on, so I can easily switch to my old cat if I wanted. I'd do it that way too.

This shouldn't be an issue as long as there are no exhaust leaks afaik. Stock one was with flanges as well.

  • 1 month later...

Small Update on the Exhaust Situation

A 200-cell cat was a bit too expensive for now, so I had the exhaust shop fabricate a new exhaust from the cat to the rear and an exhaust tip. I went this route to avoid cutting into the original exhaust and keep it intact.

It’s essentially straight-piped, and the sound is noticeably different. The exhaust tip came with a silencer, so if it gets too loud, I can easily install it to tone things down slightly. Right now, the car bangs and pops like crazy -- which I personally love.

In the future, I might add a resonator or a 200-cell cat, as niZmO_Man suggested, but for now, I’m really happy with how it turned out.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would hope so. I worry that it also might depend on whether the person working on the claim has had a good day or not. I could imagine that for example modified brakes would be an easy thing to point to for affecting the outcome of an accident. I don't know. I will keep paying my premium and hope for the best. But at the same time keep safe distances, drive defensively and avoid dickhead P-platers in lifted utes  
    • I was just working on the assumption that a cammed V8 is significantly less polluty than a Japanese I6 turbo was at the way they tested it in an IM240. Perhaps I'm wrong! Perhaps cutting one of the readings I got in half is a tall order. I don't know too many people who actually got their cars emission tested with a RB to really compare the data.
    • I thought it was just if “the modification effected/caused the incident”
    • Ok, good to know. I have open loop I think, I forgot which ones which but I am running the o2 sensor, brand new and I got a new boost solenoid because my last one was faulty and overboosting by a lot, but it's still technically overboosting. Haven't really bothered to hunt it down as I don't send it hard regularly.
    • You should not be able to see much smoke behind you if the mixtures are good - for ~13-14 psi anyway. It's not like you need to be running hell rich for only that much boost/load. Your tune might be a tad too rich. The tuner might have done that because they like to run a lot of timing. It's impossible to know what's going on from here. It won't be the actuator. It won't be the MAP sensor. Regardless of if by "MAP sensor" you mean either the Neo ECU's boost sensor (which is literally only that, a boost sensor so that the ECU knows a) that it's achieving boost, and b) that it is not overboosting) or you mean the dash gauge's MAP sensor (because it can't have any effect at all), or you mean the boost controller's MAP sensor (because it is very unlikely that it is running in closed loop, and so it is effectively just used to know when the pressure goes positive and so you can see the boost on the display, for the most part).
×
×
  • Create New...