Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I'm sorry if this has been discussed before.  I have a 2008 Japanese import V36 coupe with nav but without Bose.

I bought one of those AliExpress android screens, which for the most part works really well.  The only thing that doesn't work is the air con controls (well sort of) and the factory reverse camera.  The AC can be controlled fine but it doesn't report the change in temp and mode to the screen, and the volume knob/other audio controls from the panel don't register on the learning app. 

I am pretty certain that the problem is the difference in the head unit between base model (Nav but no Bose) 2007-2009 coupes and anything after 2009.  Mine is the one with the blue connector all the way to the right as seen in this forum post: 

The reason I think this is there is one wire left over that doesn't fit anywhere on this head unit, or in the factory screen which also uses different connectors to more recent versions.  I've seen the upgrade from OWC, and have sent the guy a message on eBay but no response yet.  I also don't particularly need the whole kit, just *maybe* an adapter for this one cable. 

Did anyone else here have the same problem, or have any insight about what I can do to get this working?  I have been in contact with the seller but all they seem to be able to do is ask for more pictures and videos.

Minor edit to add:  I have been researching and found a screen on Aliexpress that actually specifies my head unit in the listing, so these things do exist.  I will contact the seller to see if the wiring adapters are interchangeable with other screens.

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by sausagepianist

It doesn't really answer your question...but is the head unit full android or just android auto, are you happy with how quickly it boots and responds, and do you have a link?  If we can identify good Android alternatives it will really help people stuck with Japanese screens.

Did it have a separate reverse camera input so you would replace the factory one, or are you just going without now...that would be a pretty big steps back.

And finally, do you have a picture of the "wire" that you can't plug in? Most likely it is some sort of aerial that is not too important eg japanese traffic or am radio or something if you haven't noticed a functionality issue

  • 2 weeks later...

I have the same one. Mine didn't work right at the start. I had the wrong plug in the wrong spot. They asked for pictures and videos to be able to fix it. they where able to point it out in the video

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
    • This has clearly gone off on quite a tangent but the suggestion was "go standalone because you probably aren't going to stop at just exhaust + a mild tune and manual boost controller", not "buy a standalone purely for a boost controller". If the scope does in fact stop creeping at an EBC then sure, buy an EVC7 or Profec or whatever else people like to run and stop there. And I have yet to see any kind of aftermarket boost control that is more complicated than a PID controller with some accounting for edge cases. Control system theory is an incredibly vast field yet somehow we always end up back at some variant of a PID controller, maybe with some work done to linearize things. I have done quite a lot, but I don't care to indulge in those pissing matches, hence posting primary sources. I deal with people quite frequently that scream and shout about how their opinion matters more because they've shipped more x or y, it doesn't change the reality of the data they're trying to disagree with. Arguing that the source material is wrong is an entirely separate point and while my experience obviously doesn't matter here I've rarely seen factory service manuals be incorrect about something. It's not some random poorly documented internal software tool that is constantly being patched to barely work. It's also not that hard to just read the Japanese and double check translations either. Especially in automotive parts most of it is loanwords anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...