Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm replacing the front tyres on the E39 tomorrow because one of them has a few gouges out of it. There is so much tread still on them but they're also 9 years old and the rubber is super hard. 

This falls within the guidelines of 10 years old that I've read which surprises me given their condition. 

I'm curious about whether you guys care about tyre age or just judge the tyre based on condition? How old would you consider too old?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/486127-how-old-is-too-old-for-tyres/
Share on other sites

Personally I wouldn't put tyres over 4 or 5 years old on any of my own cars. Once they go hard the grip characteristics completely change. As per most things it only matters in an accident and that's when you most want them to do their job!

  • Like 2

Yeah - 4 or 5 years is the limit for decent tyres.

Pedestrian grade tyres with 400 TW ratings start out hard and don't start to suffer until they are somewhat older again. But the stickier decent stuff? Nup. My current ADO9s are < 2 yrs old, 17000km in, only have about the minimum 2mm of tread depth left, and they are.....not what they used to be. They are clearly much harder now than when new. Whether that is heat cycles (unlikely, for a road tyre), different compound between top and bottom of tread, or actually aging out (in less than 2 years!!!) is not really able to be discerned. But I'd credit actual aging as being at least part of the cause.

I've got an old pair of ~50% worn AD08Rs in the shed that I really need to get rid of. They started feeling waaaay too hard to put back on the car after a couple of years sitting there.

  • Like 1

Also, a tip for young players 

Check the dates on new tyres before they fit them, I always ask this question at the tyre shop, as they have tried to put "new" tyres on one of my cars a few years ago, but the build date was about 3 years old

  • Like 1

If the tyres were fitted when new, I wouldn't expect much over 5 years of use. Especially if the car lives outside full time. 

If the tyres had been stored under ideal conditions and are being purchased new, I'd fit a set of already 5 year old tyres if I only expected to get 1 to 2 years of use out of them. 

I've purchased many a set of new (but quite old) tyres from St George Tyres when I just needed some decent rear tyres to drift on. 

Here is a pretty crazy example, can't say I've ever bought 11 year old tyres from them before though lol. 

https://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/momo-tyres-245-45-17-outrun-m3-official-product-by-momo-italy.html

  • Haha 2
21 hours ago, PranK said:

I'm replacing the front tyres on the E39 tomorrow because one of them has a few gouges out of it. There is so much tread still on them but they're also 9 years old and the rubber is super hard. 

This falls within the guidelines of 10 years old that I've read which surprises me given their condition. 

I'm curious about whether you guys care about tyre age or just judge the tyre based on condition? How old would you consider too old?

10 years is really pushing it. At 7-8 years you need to inspect frequently for signs of dry rot.

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

10 years is really pushing it. At 7-8 years you need to inspect frequently for signs of dry rot.

I've got 15 year old tyres on a car in my garage, holding air (holding it better than the daily driver does!) and no signs of rotting/cracking/drying out. Oh, and they've only been garaged the last 3. Before that they sat in a couple of different paddocks/yards, and even spent about a week underwater too.

However, weather and other environmental factors can really change how quickly they start to dry out and crack.

My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years.

FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!

Ok got some old tyres for you guys...my car has been sitting around un-driven for about 6 years now.

I had it on the original rims with the shitty compliance tyres it got it with back in 2006, which were manufactured in 2004...

Sidewalls eventually rotted and split open, obviously no air in them and the rims were holding the car up.

Just swapped them with some 17" Work rims and tyres which are probably 10+ years old too but at least holding air

IMG_20250222_165543.jpg

IMG_20250222_165617.jpg

IMG_20250222_174409~2.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
1 hour ago, Ozdavroz said:

Ok got some old tyres for you guys...my car has been sitting around un-driven for about 6 years now.

I had it on the original rims with the shitty compliance tyres it got it with back in 2006, which were manufactured in 2004...

Sidewalls eventually rotted and split open, obviously no air in them and the rims were holding the car up.

Just swapped them with some 17" Work rims and tyres which are probably 10+ years old too but at least holding air

IMG_20250222_165543.jpg

IMG_20250222_165617.jpg

IMG_20250222_174409~2.jpg

I am now intrigued to go check the dates on the tyres on my Skyline...

We need a game of who has the oldest tyre still holding a car up, and successfully holding air (for longer than a 2 weeks I feel is successful air holding).

 

I feel your tyres may be beating mine :(

2 hours ago, Ozdavroz said:

Ok got some old tyres for you guys...my car has been sitting around un-driven for about 6 years now.

I had it on the original rims with the shitty compliance tyres it got it with back in 2006, which were manufactured in 2004...

Sidewalls eventually rotted and split open, obviously no air in them and the rims were holding the car up.

Just swapped them with some 17" Work rims and tyres which are probably 10+ years old too but at least holding air

IMG_20250222_165543.jpg

IMG_20250222_165617.jpg

IMG_20250222_174409~2.jpg

Went looking at mine, reading off the tyre, presumably these are 1st week of 2003. Still hold air (I haven't had to pump them up in over 12 months!)

 

PXL_20250222_103140228.thumb.jpg.b69a72861d9be2acef7880f8d53a73c5.jpgPXL_20250222_103349285.thumb.jpg.effffed8b1e7ef751183223cb8c3e392.jpgPXL_20250222_103357847.thumb.jpg.6ae9c122892af223103c9e18656b97c9.jpg

 

I couldn't quickly find the date on the front tyres, they were fitted around 2008 to the rims, so probably not quite as old, but they have a lot more dry rot cracks in them. Still hold air. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...