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Or @PranK could probably exempt the account realising it's a real human being on the other end of it.

Every Skyline now is a full resto mod job. It's more surprising when things aren't  falling apart and quite frankly I'm surprised when things are holding up. I'm often touching something working and remarking it's kinda crazy the condition it's in for 25+ years old when I see newer cars from 2008 etc falling to pieces. 


I would not expect anything to work.

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I have removed the restrictions on your account @svenskalice

Usually this happens automatically after 15 posts but happy to do it manually when a new user has proved that they are a user. :)

 

On 3/12/2025 at 10:24 AM, GTSBoy said:

10 psi. 11-11.5 at the extreme max. Perfectly safe, just smoky, if not retuned.

Mine tuned and smokey on boost lol, though I do overboost past 13.5 psi if I really push it. Might need to get my turbo actuator inspected if it's jamming. Do you know if the map sensor can have something to do with it? I hear they tend to fail.

Edited by silviaz
1 minute ago, silviaz said:

Mine tuned and smokey on boost lol, though I do overboost past 13.5 psi if I really push it. Might need to get my turbo actuator inspected if it's jamming. Do you know if the map sensor can have something to do with it? I hear they tend to fail.

You should not be able to see much smoke behind you if the mixtures are good - for ~13-14 psi anyway. It's not like you need to be running hell rich for only that much boost/load. Your tune might be a tad too rich. The tuner might have done that because they like to run a lot of timing. It's impossible to know what's going on from here.

It won't be the actuator.

It won't be the MAP sensor. Regardless of if by "MAP sensor" you mean either the Neo ECU's boost sensor (which is literally only that, a boost sensor so that the ECU knows a) that it's achieving boost, and b) that it is not overboosting) or you mean the dash gauge's MAP sensor (because it can't have any effect at all), or you mean the boost controller's MAP sensor (because it is very unlikely that it is running in closed loop, and so it is effectively just used to know when the pressure goes positive and so you can see the boost on the display, for the most part).

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3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

You should not be able to see much smoke behind you if the mixtures are good - for ~13-14 psi anyway. It's not like you need to be running hell rich for only that much boost/load. Your tune might be a tad too rich. The tuner might have done that because they like to run a lot of timing. It's impossible to know what's going on from here.

It won't be the actuator.

It won't be the MAP sensor. Regardless of if by "MAP sensor" you mean either the Neo ECU's boost sensor (which is literally only that, a boost sensor so that the ECU knows a) that it's achieving boost, and b) that it is not overboosting) or you mean the dash gauge's MAP sensor (because it can't have any effect at all), or you mean the boost controller's MAP sensor (because it is very unlikely that it is running in closed loop, and so it is effectively just used to know when the pressure goes positive and so you can see the boost on the display, for the most part).

Ok, good to know. I have open loop I think, I forgot which ones which but I am running the o2 sensor, brand new and I got a new boost solenoid because my last one was faulty and overboosting by a lot, but it's still technically overboosting. Haven't really bothered to hunt it down as I don't send it hard regularly.

Edited by silviaz

Overboosting is more likely a function of whatever boost controller you are using than the actuator.

"Overboosting" is a feature of cheap boost tee type control. If you don't want to see peaks of overboost, you have to set it to not produce them. And that then means you don't run as much boost as you might like elsewhere. That's just life.

Electronic boost controllers can generally be set to do a much better job of managing the peak boost.

24 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Overboosting is more likely a function of whatever boost controller you are using than the actuator.

"Overboosting" is a feature of cheap boost tee type control. If you don't want to see peaks of overboost, you have to set it to not produce them. And that then means you don't run as much boost as you might like elsewhere. That's just life.

Electronic boost controllers can generally be set to do a much better job of managing the peak boost.

Ah ok, my tuner did adjust something on the percentage cycle on the boost controller, instead of running at 40% the tuner put it on 20% to compensate for the overboost, can't remember what it was. Not duty cycle don't think, and told me if it keeps overboosting, it's going to be something else. I think he mentioned the turbo actuator.

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

Ah ok, my tuner did adjust something on the percentage cycle on the boost controller, instead of running at 40% the tuner put it on 20% to compensate for the overboost, can't remember what it was. Not duty cycle don't think, and told me if it keeps overboosting, it's going to be something else. I think he mentioned the turbo actuator.

On some cars like MR2 Turbos they're notorious for not letting the wastegate open far enough to avoid overboost, especially certain cheap downpipes. If adjusting "percentage cycle" fixes it then it's just an electronic control issue, not a hardware one.

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