R32GTR R200 reverting from Nismo centre to stock

[djr81]

I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day.

At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing.

So my questions are:

Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity?

Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have?

Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way.

There appear to be two Nismo disc kits:

3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m.

3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m.

Or is the easiest solution to reshim the Nismo diff to make it looser?

Edited 10 hours ago by djr81

[joshuaho96]

1 hour ago, djr81 said:

I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day.

At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing.

So my questions are:

Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity?

Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have?

Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way.

There appear to be two Nismo disc kits:

3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m.

3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m.

Or is the easiest solution to reshim the Nismo diff to make it looser?

Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.

Edited 9 hours ago by joshuaho96

[djr81]

It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version.

I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold.

So I guess you have three things.

1. Shims.

2 Friction plates

3. Cams

Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque.

Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry.

Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.

 

[joshuaho96]

1 hour ago, djr81 said:

It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version.

I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold.

So I guess you have three things.

1. Shims.

2 Friction plates

3. Cams

Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque.

Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry.

Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.

 

I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.

Edited 6 hours ago by joshuaho96

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

an ounce at a time

Or a useable metric unit?

[MBS206]

48 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Or a useable metric unit?

But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...

[Duncan]

All I can add is that I run a shimmed factory diff and it is awesome for a balance between grip and clunks.....but no I don't know exactly what is in there and the shop that did it sadly is gone. I guess the point is just that the factory centre can be modified to do exactly what we want for racing

[joshuaho96]

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Or a useable metric unit?

30 mL or something. I hate the lack of standardization on metric too, leads to annoying situations like not being able to find an M12x1.25 nut at the hardware store unless I special order or find the one store in a 30 km radius that actually stocks a non-trivial quantity of the thing so there's at least an 80% chance they haven't all been stolen.

[GTSBoy]

Don't you have specialist fastener warehouses? I can point to a non-trivial number of them in my city of 1.5 mllion people. Sassafras agencies is a 2 minute walk from my office. United Fasteners is almost exactly halfway between my work and my house, so less than 15km from each. All metric sizes, all SAE sizes, all materials, all thread pitches, all form factors.

I know the street address of one and have walked into and bought stainless bolts, nuts and washers from, 2000km away in a regional centre in Western Australia with a population of <200000.

Only mugs buy their fasteners at hardware stores. Our version of Lowes or the orange hellzone is called Bunnings. A rip off merchant of cheaply made exclusive home brand Chinese excreta of the first order.

We can walk into Blackwoods, which is the Oz equivalent of Grainger, and get robbed blind, but at least it's getting robbed blind on proper industrial grade gear.

 

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Try using Penrite 80W140, has Limslip predosed into it 

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Don't you have specialist fastener warehouses? I can point to a non-trivial number of them in my city of 1.5 mllion people. Sassafras agencies is a 2 minute walk from my office. United Fasteners is almost exactly halfway between my work and my house, so less than 15km from each. All metric sizes, all SAE sizes, all materials, all thread pitches, all form factors.

I know the street address of one and have walked into and bought stainless bolts, nuts and washers from, 2000km away in a regional centre in Western Australia with a population of <200000.

Only mugs buy their fasteners at hardware stores. Our version of Lowes or the orange hellzone is called Bunnings. A rip off merchant of cheaply made exclusive home brand Chinese excreta of the first order.

We can walk into Blackwoods, which is the Oz equivalent of Grainger, and get robbed blind, but at least it's getting robbed blind on proper industrial grade gear.

 

 

And what you pay for a pack of 8 bolts and nuts at Bunnings, will land me 200 of the same nuts and bolts from a fastener shop.

 

1 hour ago, joshuaho96 said:

30 mL or something. I hate the lack of standardization on metric too, leads to annoying situations like not being able to find an M12x1.25 nut at the hardware store unless I special order or find the one store in a 30 km radius that actually stocks a non-trivial quantity of the thing so there's at least an 80% chance they haven't all been stolen.

M12 * 1.25 IS a standard.

It's not like ordering M12x1.25 and hoping the thread pitch is right. Unlike ordering an ounce, will get you 4 different amounts depending on which ounce someone takes it to be.

Your issue is a supply issue.