Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I guess it was only a matter of time before the 9.75s record set by Mario's GTR 700 was broken. An adelaide entrant has clintched top spot with a 9.745. Keir Wilson is the owner/driver of the R32 GTR with an OS Giken 3 litre, hollinger, and TD06 turbos (last time i checked)

Congrats must go to Keir and everyone involved as thats a sensational effort.

With the return of Mario GTR records are set to tumble and with a few big HP GTR's on the build, the competition is finally turning into what I've been hoping it would for at least 2 years.

My question is this: Is Keirs 32GTR now eligable to become a RH9 car? If so, I believe its the first GTR in Australia to be eligable. (Mario's is in the Pro class)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4879-new-australian-gtr-record/
Share on other sites

I reckon that Kier's car is Australia's 1st recognised RH9 car.

He was road registered, had streetable tyres, what else do you need? He drove it in, ran and drove it out again.

As mentioned above, Mario had the record but ran full slicks in a fully stripped car putting him in a completely different category of ProGTR. I'm hanging to see that car run a "real" time for the amount of HP it's claimed to have (exact figures have never been published).

Congrats to Kier and his crew for making a mark in the Aussie Jap car history books.

The official RH9 sticker reads ;

The street specs of GTR,0-400m 9 second's

Record Holders Club.

Danny(denzo) gave me his RH9 stickers when he stopped draging

his white R32 GTR due to breakages.(has sick drift cars instead)

I believe, in Japan, if a GTR runs street tyres & can drive out to

the track, run nines then drive home again, it is a RH9 car.

There is a fine line though.Most GTRs capable of running nines would be trailered to the track due to logistical reasons.Why wear

out a highly tuned GTR in traffic when you can unleash it on the track?

The problem we have in Australia is that the only "street tyres"

they use in Japan(on all the serious cars anyway) are Nitto Extreme 555R tyres.These tyres are not legal on the street in Australia.Keir puts his on at the Track.So will I when they get here.(in transit now).Most of the fast cars in Jap run rollcages.

Next problem - Once you run past 10.0 you must have a full roll cage with intrusion bars(Andra tech inspected).Up to 10.0 a 1/2

cage with intrusion bar on drivers side is ok.This is acceptable on the street(from a practicle point of view)but once you need a full

cage the car becomes less practicle as a street car.

At this level you must have a triple layer fire suit,fire resistant socks,boots,gloves, even underwear.Also arm restraints or window net plus 5 point harness etc etc.

Once you hit 140mph through the traps a parachute in mandatory.

So to be able to race a RH9 street car in Australia on a regular basis you have to turn it into a full blown, Andra tech inspected Drag car!!! Hmmm. Caught between a rock & a hard place.

While we like to hang on to the "but it's a street car"mentality,

I have had to face the hard truth that an 800hp,quad plate clutch/

holinger sequential/locked diffs,stripped out interior,Nitto wearing

GTR is a RACE car with number plates.Add a roll cage & parachute

and who are we kidding? No turning back now. Reece & Mario have cracked the nines.Now Keir has taken the title back to Adelaide with his beautifully built (Australian delivered!!!) R32 GTR. I am hot on his heels(when my Holinger gets here) & I'm

sure there are a number of other crazy GTRs out there in the wings.Man. It's going to be an interesting summer.

Never know.One day we might have our own competition GTR class!In the meantime, who's going to beat Reece's 9.518?

:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The easiest option might be to just spray a bunch of fish oil in there.  At least that way you can feel like you've done something while you continue to ignore it
    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
×
×
  • Create New...