Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

220rwkw is way too optimistic... if you had a bigger turbz i'd believe it.

But as long as the car feels better, dont worry about high reading dynos. Driveabllity is more important

well yeah, i love the way the car feels now regardless of how many kw it reads. for the first time yesterday i almost lost control overtaking someone

feels great, im happy

wont let me upload the graph at the moment

will try again later

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think what insant is trying to say is the they've bodged up the dyno figure to make it look like a good dyno tune, also the stock clutch is good for about 180-190rwkw, whats it like at 220?

If the dyno used was Bresciani's then my 220rwkw was backed up at Selectmaz very closely.

It may be possible the turbo has been modified without being able to see the difference. looking forward to seeing the dyno plot.

Where the hell were all you buggers all weekend? Phillip Island was awesome.

  • 2 months later...

have you changed the o2 sensor in the last 50,000 ks? goto autobarn, repco get a ford el faclon oxygen sensor, its a standard bosch or whatever brand it is. should take around 1 hour to install at the most. unscrew old one its on the exhaust dump pipe just after the turbo, right behind the turbo heat shield, cut the plug wires off, and replace with new one. The oxygen sensor has two same colour wires and 1 unique colour wire so you can't get it wrong. Match the two same colour wires to the car loom and the unique to unique on the loom. I was getting 250ks to a full tank. Replaced o2 sensor and got around 350 odd

The o2 sensor is only supposed to last 40,000 ks

yeah its around $100 ish. i paid $125 at repco for a AAA brand one i think.

nissan ones genuine are like $250 or something stupid so if you ask for the ford el or as japcab said that place in bayswater

what size is the 31 fuel tank, i think the 33 only takes like 55 litres tops

whereas the aus 31s and vl (im guessing similar fuel tank) took a good 65-70 litres.

does that sound right? the purpose of the o2 is to save fuel by giving feedback to the ecu, without it (as in dead after 50,000 odd or unplugged) the ecu just never goes into save fuel mode, well at least thats what ive learnt and read up on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
×
×
  • Create New...