Blitz boost Gauge and Sard Exhaust temperature gauge.
Announcements
-
Similar Content
-
-
Latest Posts
-
Give the fluid a really good flush, then go do the same track again. Report back too please -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
I think most of the benefit there is really from the battery as well, having 1 kWh or so means you don't need the engine running at idle to run the AC, when the battery is depleted you can run much higher idle to charge the battery at a lower bsfc point and then shut it back down, you can regen on braking to recover some of that power too. I can't imagine the benefit from only running the compressor as much as needed is huge if you're mostly only running the AC on hot sunny days where it really needs to work hard to keep interior cabin temp under ambient. -
Yeah, unless you're doing it by the book, your data is probably not useful. Boiling point drops rapidly with only just a little water in it. -
How hard are you tracking it? I have 378 in front and 355 in the back with decent pads and my brakes were spongy after a decent session with lots of braking. It was a short track though but got up to around 190-200 max. be keen to hear. Mind you, I havent flushed my fluid so thats probably part of reason. -
By Papichulo96 · Posted
Awesome thanks for the reply Man! I already plugged up the back just cause I can’t take a chance on it leaking on me again haha. But i will fab a catch can with 2x for the cam covers and a lower one for the sump vent. Now as this will drain back as well , Is there any concern I should have of the oil being drained back. I don’t run e85 or anything . 2nd question is, from the picture does it seem that my sump fitting is above oil level? Silly question but I rather have someone’s experienced opinion lol
-
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now