Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellow p platers! (and everyone else of course!! :) )

just wondering that if i rock up to vic roads and ask them, i want to register a R33 GTS-t, are they going to say......mmmmm...no, too powerful?? I'm getting varied kw/tonne ratios and i'm not sure which ones are right, or what ratios vic roads has. I know there are a couple of guys down my way, um...Steve and Denton??? One of them is on p's with a turbo. Is it illegal and u have to spin a story? or is it just on the limit.

I have very few days left to get all this organised (long fcking story) whether to import, do it my self, broker, yada yada. Pls guys, i need ur help asap, i am really desperate here...

thanks. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4884-to-all-those-p-platers-out-there/
Share on other sites

Guest tgriffin

Firstly, I live in NSW. I am on my 2nd of 3 years on P plates (green Ps).

Who are you referring to in regards to limitations for P platers?

As far as I know, drivers can drive any damn car they please. The only exception is manual/auto; namely if you take your test on auto, you can't legally drive a manual until you get your full license (or your P2 license here in NSW - it's confusing).

I know motorcyclists have engine capacity limits, but cars don't. It's just a question of how much 3rd party and possibly comprehensive insurance will cost you.

yo im in carnegie and on my p's

i know all the facts a skyline(t) is to powerful for a p plater the max power a skyline can have to make it legal for a p plater is 137kw at the wheels. You can make it 137 kw at the wheels which is what i first did by restricting the airfloor to the turbo however i got varied stories from experts some saying it would ruin the turbo and in turn the engine and others saying it would be fine due to the air flow sensor. Vic roads will register an r33 gts25t they registered mine and they registered my friends we were both on p plates at the time....ive heard of stories about police pulling people over.....im driving around my car with full power and have never had any problems....... the police and vic roads use the factory power rating 187kw at the fly wheel.....which converts to around 150 at the wheels....so yes it is illegal but look how many p platers drives turbos.....get it and worry about it later.. thats my advice. but you wont be getting full comp insurance.

ok, u might not have power restrictions in NSW, in VIC we have a Kw/tonne ratio, so P platers are only allowed to drive a car 125kw/tonne or under, anything over is a no no. That's why Mark Philopoosus (yeah i know it's wrong, but looks funnily spelt like that) couldn't get a ferrari when he was on his p's, cos it was too powerful. But, SteveR33 already helped me out saying that the R33 GTS-t isn't classified over the 125kw/tonne ratio, so all is good. But thanks again tgriffin.

the r33 gts25t is classified over the 125kw per tonne? how much does the car weigh???? roughly 1400kgs the factory power output is 187 kw???? 125kw per tone.......187-125=62kw.....so we have 400kg and 62 kws....can anyone else see this?? a professor or maths at rmit calculated it all for me the max the car can be mid 160 at the fly wheel........so there HUH

get it anyhow

thanks akeenan,

oh...and thanks for Red Ace Motors, i have 2 choices, import myself and they can hold a plate and do the compliancing for me, but they also have offered to bring in a car for me as well, added bonuses are that they own the car on the way over, so if anything goes wrong, they have to bare (??spellin) the costs, like sitting on the docks at 50 bucks a day. And there is also a 3 month warranty as well, u don't get that if u get a broker to help u bring one in.

I thought they go on the kw/tonne ratio?? And i've got figures of 125 - 127kw/tonne for the R33 GTS-T, so i was wondering what Vic roads had, but SteveR33 said it wasn't listed, so either it's just on the limit, or just under......who know's...

yo go through red ace motors they are good thats where i got mine from.....trust me the turbo is over the limit do the maths....and when you get it registered make hanah go down to vic roads with you...they all know her down there and they just tick all the boxes and let you drive away...i got my r33 registered with hanah with an exhaust that was 114db 24 db over the legal limit :D

believe me i know! about everything

yeah just did the calculations myself, 1.38 tonnes, 187kw/1.38 tonnes = 135.507kw per tonne.........u needed a professor for that??? :D:P That's weird, the new SEVS scheme has the RB25DET at 127/tonne....go figure...

Yeah, spoke heaps to Hana, she said something about going to down to vic roads with me...they also mentioned an 18 a couple of moths ago gettin one, but he rolled it apparently......:P

carnegie? red ace be pretty handy for u, not that far. U get ur car serviced there??

the proff is my step father...i service mine myself.....i got my car for 17k 46,000 kms and its in perfect condition i also have active lsd and slip acknowldegemsnren which are both gtr features...... they guys are good there however they dont know as much as they make out...i was having problems wity my hicas light coming on and i taught them about it... i ended up fixing it myself and explaining to them how i did it :D apart from that they are good.. they helped me alot

service urself??? now that's the way to go......if i knew what to do! :D They had a R32 GTR being complianced when i was in there, and they gave it a bit of a rev..........:uh-huh: :uh-huh:

that was awesome!!! i think it was there way of trying to persuade me to buy one! :P

just gotta try and convince the parents bout the whole thing, that's my last hurdle, they don't want me getting a turbo....but yeah, hana seems real nice and willing to help and stuff.

was the 17K on the road??? Damn, that's like my budget, i want a stock standard R33 GTS-t Silver (full silver, not the half one) for like 16 - 17K, but if i got around 17 i'd have to borrow a little bit...

nah man on road was around 20k....the guy that owns the place fred bought a purple r33 gtr vspec and it came on the same shipment as mine. The first day the head mechanic took it 200km per hour down kangaroo road which is pretty brave in that area...

you wont get one for less than 20km from red ace, for some reason mine went cheap in japan and its 100% authentic.( thats 20k on road as well). ive seen alot of silver ones in there i go there a fair bit everytime i go there they always try to get me to buy an r34..??? strange......when you get it we will go cruising and clock top speed.

yeah, i know kangaroo road...that's bloody brave

hehehe, top speed? knowing u, being all car savy, u've prob cut the infamous #53 wire or watever and then leave me stranded at 180!! :D:P :P

i told her my limit of 16 - 17k on road, and she didn't seem to think that it couldn't be done. Are they more expensive than say.....J-Spec or Geoff at Prestige Motorsport?? or Edge?

im not a fan of geoff i was thinking about getting mine through him but he kept emailing me saying this car has come into the country and will sell for around 18 on road and it was well into the 20's......anyhow...it may also pay to check out the trading post my friend bought his r33 for 19k on road with mag wheels 18k without them but he wanted the wheels?? the #53 nah i dont want to get stuck in diagnostic mode....but i have gone over 190km per hour on the monash freeway in another friends r33 its amazing how quickly cars will get out of your way at that speed! i took my old lancer to 200km and it was redlining in fifth....hahahaha soon after i lost my license :D but its back now

190, 200, lost license??? i would like to think that i wouldn't try that and be a responsible skyline driver, but from talking to the other guys here...i think something must changed once they step in a skyline :D This is what my parents are worrying about with the turbo, they think i'll be hooning off everywhere. Which is wrong, it's not the reason i want that car. Yes they are fast, but i love the look, they are quite unique, i've heard real good things about handling and all round driveability and in a couple of years when i want to do some engine mods, i'll have a car that can take it. Not so i can just go trash it straightaway and a roll it in a ditch, but they are current affair watchers and all that crap, so they swallow the whole stereo type thing hook line and sinker.

nah i lost it at 133km per hour in a 100 zone all is good now... i only hoon now and again ull soon realise that petrol is a major issue...when ur only getting 325km off a 65ltr tank..... after a few weeks of driving it u tone down and become sensible

hhahahaha, become sensible :D..... get this, i put 23.66 in my nissan pulsar gli hatchback, 1.6ltr 4 cyclinder, and it lasted me over a month!!! :P :P Admitted i don't drive much, like 5 times a week and like 20 mins each time...but i was still happy :(

well mate, it was great chatting with ya, hopefully and get the parents to come round and i'll be cruising round with ya in the skylines. But going from a car with 74kw (if that, i don't know??) to 187kw might take a little getting use to...

got uni tomorrow, and it's gettin on. Thanks so much for all the help and advice, really appreciate it. I'll talk to ya soon!

cya

Originally posted by akeenan

yo im in carnegie and on my p's

i know all the facts  : the police and vic roads use the factory power rating 187kw at the fly wheel.....which converts to around 150 at the wheels.....

Erm: WRONG

A stock R33 GTST will NOT make 150kw at the wheels

If you are restricted to a max power at the wheels of 137 kw then a skyline (presuming its stock) will be acceptable

I bought my Cefiro from Geoff @ Prestige. It wasn't one that he sent round on an email though. He worked to my budget and we found with with all the gear I wanted at my price range. He was very good and provided a nice spreadsheet to help with costings. This helped me to get the car on the road under my original budget.

I don't know if $17K on road for R33 is possible though, maybe a slight accident damaged one.... I'm no Skyline price expert though!

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...