Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Just wondering if theres anywhere I can find how much r33s are changing hands for at the moment or what is a fair price to buy/sell?

Particularly interested in r33's as below.

ie. 1995ish 50k clean stock

ie. 1996ish 70k clean light mods (air, muffler, wheels)

Redbook and NRMA don't seem to have r33s and I see a variety of sales for perfectly good r33s between 15k-20k.

Whats the deal? I don't want to pay too much I don't want to rip anyone off.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48866-r33-median-sales-prices/
Share on other sites

I think you'll find that prices vary a huge amount as there's no real baseline price that they sell for (stock examples I'm talking here) - possibly because the auction prices in Japan seem to be quite random or vary based on where they were sold. Some cars came in fully modified, so were cheap, whereas some were modified here and the owner wants a little more to cover their costs.

Also, the low km requirement is a bit questionable imo - most Japanese cars have had their odometer wound back, so basing prices on mileage is pretty much useless.

So basically what I'm saying is that you could probably find a totally stock 95 S1 R33 for $20K (a tad overpriced imo) or you could find a modified S2 96 model for 18K (underpriced). I think if you're willing to pay what they're asking, then buy it. Otherwise, just wait until one catches your eye at a price you like. The 15-20K range you suggested should get you a very nice example.

BTW You might want to take a sneak preview of my ad :) (I haven't put it in the paper yet or in the for sale section)

R33 GTS25t for sale :)

Cheers,

Michael

A shameless plug Mi I like it :)

Thanks for the info that sounds about right - whats the deal with the winding back tho? Surely it's not ALL wound back? I guess a 50k example might be questionable (especially if the current owner has unplugged the dash clicker over thing) but still not ALL?

Unfortunately I've first hand known and heard of excellent ones being sold at $15k and total bombs sold at $19k .. its a bit dodgey if you ask me.

Especially since r32 prices are in the SAME PRICERANGE!! <<< this shits me the most since I like the r32 but r33s are in most cases cheaper (if you consider they are newer etc).

I guess the moral of the story is if you wait long enough you can luck onto something - thanks mate appreciate that (... i will check out your ad now altho i prolly seen it already).

hehe yeah it was a little shameless, wasn't it :)

I should rephrase what I said about winding back - I'm sure there are plenty of ones that aren't wound back, but it seems pretty damn common to find a a 94 model with 50,000km on it - it's just slightly unbelievable.

And you're right about the R32s being in the same price range. I think it might be because they're a bit rarer than 33s. A bit strange though, imo.

Thanks for checking my ad out, too :)

I recently bought a stock 1995 R33, I benchmarked it against the nicest dealer cars I could find.

Privately I found a 1995 which seemed to have an honest 75k km on it for $18k. A bit scruffy but $5K cheaper than a similar car at a dealer.

All the S2's I looked at seemed overpriced compared to dealer S2's - detailed with warranties... but I did miss two at just below $20K which sold real quick!

I doubt there are $15k GTS T R33's worth owning, & I doubt that too many R32 GTS T's actually change hands for the big bucks people asking.

I was looking for a daily driver so I was after a stocker, YMMV.

Z

And you're right about the R32s being in the same price range. I think it might be because they're a bit rarer than 33s. A bit strange though, imo.

I know a guy who used to own an R32, and his mechanic told him that the even-numbered Skylines were the better, refined versions, and the odd numbered versions were the crappy prototypes (like Holden/Ford Series 1/2). He also said that the RB20 engine (even number) was better than the RB25 (odd number), so the R32 was still better than the R34. And this guy believed all this 100%. I shit you not! So if there were enough people like this around, that could explain why R32's are overpriced :P

Seriously though, I think it's just that the R32's are rarer and there seem to be a disproportionate number of people that like R32's more than R33's. So given a smaller number of cars available for the former, that drives the price up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
    • Was that Australia Delivered Duncan? Does it have siren etc?   I used to have remote start on an old 32 two decades ago, it was a cool feature. I used to wake up early in winter for work. Start it and by the time i was out the door a few minutes later the engine was warmed up and the heaters had the car toasty. It was great.    I don’t mine the ambience lighting.  I drive a western star and it has footwell lights and ambient lighting and it’s great! From the pics of seen of them installed in a skyline I think it’s a nice touch 
×
×
  • Create New...