Jump to content
SAU Community

Toluene

MattR

By MattR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MattR Veteran

MattR

Posted
Posted

Just wondering has anyone done any dyno runs with toluene?? Just did two runs on the weekend, one with out and one with Toluene. 160 with out and 166 with the Toluene in. The mixture was only 7:1 and still got a result, just a fluke or has anyone else also had any good results?? :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/
Share on other sites
rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by U ZCREAM

Hmmm, you should be careful with that stuff. I hear it can dry out your injectors. But if you're only using a small amount for a short period, you should be fine

You are thinking of methanol (I think?). Toluene doesn't have this effect. The problem with toluene is getting a cold start when you run too high a mixture on a cold day.

MattR - It's good stuff isn't it.

:D

I've had a test on mine, no dyno time just a nice 200kms worth of driving. You will find that you can run more boost as well (within the limits of your headgasket and turbo of course). I ran a brief 14psi to test and it went fine.

With extra boost I'm sure you can get more than 166. BTW what mixture did you run?

From memory mine was 25-30%, I'd say a 10-15% would be better without a remapp unless you go extra boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-76174
Share on other sites
MattR Veteran

MattR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gav as far as I know Toluene an Metholbenzene are diffarant according to the material safety data sheets. Toluene can be bought as a solvent or as a fuel addative, if you buy it as a solvent you pay about $50 for 20 litres if you buy it for a addative you pay about $70.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-76952
Share on other sites
Gav Mentor

Gav

Posted
Posted

Actually correct chemical name IS methylbenzene, (methobenzene is also commonly used but is a misnomer).

I stole 4 litres when I did my chemistry/metallurgy degree (too many years ago now) and mixed it in the fule tank of my EK Holden (202 tripple f*ck yous, a lumpy seat and exagerators).

Thems were the day me boy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-77134
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

MattR.. You run a bleed setup don't you?

You should be getting boost drop to 12 maybe 13psi up top.

Slap more boost in to it.. Maybe up to 17psi in the mid but it will drop back off to 13psi up top anyhow..

I ran my turbo like that for a while didn't damage it as far as I know.. Now with the EBC it holds 15psi all the way to redline and made 164rwkw with a untuned ecu.. So with a tuned ecu i might crack the 170 mark.. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-77251
Share on other sites
rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...25&pagenumber=1

This is an previous thread on toluene, covers most of the questions, including the myth about toluene perishing fuel hoses.

BTW I think Boostmeister had a dyno run with 30%toluene mix and got 2rwkw extra without raising the boost any (where the extra power lives)

MattR; The stock turbo shouldn't have the boost raised past 1 bar anyway, so its of little value unless you get it rebuilt with a steel wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-77831
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Oh you still running stock cooler..

Maybe thats why the octane boost made such a difference as the air is hot and maybe there was really slight detonation where the ecu was pulling out timing and with the octane boost there was no more detonation..?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4890-toluene/#findComment-78163
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...