Buying a R32 GTR

[siksII]

what else could it be if there is instant smoke after the turbo blows, and then u find bits of ceramic turbo wheel in your sump/oil filter?

also remember its not large chunks, its tiny pieces like sand that get stuck in.. the large chunks would be blown out....

[wrxhoon]

Guys - I'm still hell skeptical

Unless I see hard evidence of ceramic bits in the engine bores I can't possibly see how parts can travel back against the pressure in the exhaust manifold, then through the head ports and finally back down into the bores when the valves are opening.  

Just think about it for a moment - what sort of velocity is the gas travelling OUT of the exhaust ports at - friggin' heaps!

I'm not doubting that when you open the engine up that there is bore damage - I'm just hell skeptical that it is caused by ceramic exhaust wheel parts.

gav ,

there is a deal for you . you boost your stock ceramic gtr turbos and when they let go ( thats right when not if ) if they dont damage your engine i'll buy you a new set and even install them for you but if they stuff your engine then you buy me a set of 2530's .

[wrxhoon]

My mechanic (which I trust) says there is a risk of a blown ceramic turbo doing harm to your engine otherwise I would be purposely running at 1.2bar trying to kill the mothers!

Rebuilding stock turbos costs around $800/turbo. Removing and installing turbos on an R32 GT-R is no easy job and could cost anywhere from $650-850 depending on who does it for you.  

A GT-R on boost is an awesome thing though huh? I am looking into a set of N1 turbos. Small, keep the response down low and able to handle over 1bar of boost comfortably. Sounds perfect to me! (cheers to SydneyKid for all the knowledge).

i have a set of r33 n1's in my gtr and i find them very good , i run 1.2 bar boost and they will hold more boost all the way to 8000 , they boost a little later that the stock ceramic turbos , power comes on hard from 4000 rpm ( 1 bar ) and full boost at 4500 in third gear . the only mods are power f/c ,ebc i/cooler piping and full exhaust . i did run 11.7 @120 mph with 1.85 60 ft .

2530's are better because they are ball bearing and when i get my r34 thats what i'm going to use unless i find cheap n1's .

[wrxhoon]

My mechanic (which I trust) says there is a risk of a blown ceramic turbo doing harm to your engine otherwise I would be purposely running at 1.2bar trying to kill the mothers!

Rebuilding stock turbos costs around $800/turbo. Removing and installing turbos on an R32 GT-R is no easy job and could cost anywhere from $650-850 depending on who does it for you.  

A GT-R on boost is an awesome thing though huh? I am looking into a set of N1 turbos. Small, keep the response down low and able to handle over 1bar of boost comfortably. Sounds perfect to me! (cheers to SydneyKid for all the knowledge).

i have a set of r33 n1's in my gtr and i find them very good , i run 1.2 bar boost and they will hold more boost all the way to 8000 , they boost a little later that the stock ceramic turbos , power comes on hard from 4000 rpm ( 1 bar ) and full boost at 4500 in third gear . the only mods are power f/c ,ebc i/cooler piping and full exhaust . i did run 11.7 @120 mph with 1.85 60 ft .

2530's are better because they are ball bearing and when i get my r34 thats what i'm going to use unless i find cheap n1's .

how is the oil catch can going justin , i still want it whenever you get it back .

[wrxhoon]

wow!

i always believed there wasn't too much chance of engine damage with a turbo "letting go".....! i had the gtst turbo running at 18psi for a few runs

before i replaced it, since i didnt care if it broke (which it didnt)

i have been looking at 89 gtr's i think ill steer clear now, since most of them would of run around one bar with exhaust mods and boost mods at same stage

i dont think the the gtst turbo will damage your engine when it lets go but not 100% on that . reason is the exhaust valves open close cycle is different to gtr .

gtst duration is 54 degrees gtr is 56 deg .

[GTR090]

Hey guys, thanx again for all ur help......Got the checks done, and everything seems to be fine....The comps a lil lower on the front three than the back three....by bout 15psi...I hear dis is ok???

[lwells]

Hey guys, thanx again for all ur help......Got the checks done, and everything seems to be fine....The comps a lil lower on the front three than the back three....by bout 15psi...I hear dis is ok???

They shouldn't be more than about 10% out on a compression test. Are these results for compression or leak down, and what were the numbers for each cylinder?

LW.

[lwells]

Hey guys, thanx again for all ur help......Got the checks done, and everything seems to be fine....The comps a lil lower on the front three than the back three....by bout 15psi...I hear dis is ok???

They shouldn't be more than about 10% out on a compression test. Are these results for compression or leak down, and what were the numbers for each cylinder?

LW.

[wrxhoon]

15 psi down on all front 3 ? thats a bit sus , did the front turbo let go ? usualy the rear goes . if the front turbo let go and compression is down on the front 3 i'll a little worried .

as lwells said it should be less than 10 % variance but i wouldnt want that they should be fairly close like 5 psi difference or less .

anyway standard comp is 1.18 mpa ( 12kg/cm ) or about 170psi and variance limit is .1 mpa or about 14 psi .

a leakdown test will give you a better indication of the cil bore condition .

[GTR090]

Im not too sure which turbo went.... will find out. I bouight the car though and it runs smooth as!!! Just a lil worried about the clutch. I use to own a jap spec Vr4(early evo) and had way too much fun launchin that, it was 4 wheel drive. I cant afford to in dis right now, cuz im afraid the clutch will burn out sooner than id like. I be looking out for a twinny i a couple monts....