Jump to content
SAU Community

Defected to refected..... Helpful tips.

Irish

By Irish,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Irish Contributor

Irish

Posted
Posted

Well I managed to walk the burning pit of coals (regency) and survive. I am so relieved to pass but it was a pretty close call. The one thing I will give them is that they really know what to look for. In 5 minutes they had pretty much located a dozen things that they were interested in. It took 2 hours and 5 guys to inspect my car and I was a nervous wreck by the end. There are a couple of points that I feel worth mentioning for people that have to go down the same path:

1. Be friendly, courteous and don't argue.

2. Don't lie to the inspectors (don't tell them everything but just don't lie, they know!).

3. Be on time for the appointment.

4. Your car must be STOCK mechanically and electrically.

5. They follow all vaccum lines in the engine bay and under the dash so remove them from boost controllers, gauges etc. before inspection.

6. You will need the stock steering wheel. You may be able to argue the point but even if you do win you just piss the guy off.

7. Front mounts will fail because they change crumple zones. Turbo mods are a no-no for emissions and brake upgrades will need an engineers report.

8. Dress conservatively and neatly. Try and give the impression of respectability/responsibility. I went in uniform and I would bet that it was the biggest determining factor for me passing.

9. Ask lots of questions and try and develop a repore with the inspector. Don't blatantly arse lick but try and keep them in conversation.

10. Fully degrease the living shit out of your car just before inspection. Make sure that it is dry before you are inspected so it looks like your engine bay is normally clean with no leaks.

At the end of the day I thought that the guys there were very fair and professional but I am sure that if you pissed them off they would make life very hard for you. They found everything on my car that had been modified and also checked for normal compliance stuff like child restraints, fuel filler and seat belts. The moral of the story is: DON'T GET DEFECTED! I hope this helps someone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48983-defected-to-refected-helpful-tips/
Share on other sites
Irish Contributor

Irish

Posted
  • Author
Posted

They didn't look too much at the intercooler on my car. I think you would only have an issue if the guy was having a shitty day or you gave him an excuse to stuff you around. Also, if your car came with a front mount from the factory then it wouldn't be an issue unless you have changed it noticably. I think what he was trying to say was that if you have cut out a heap of reo to get the intercooler in then they may have an issue with it. They even wanted me to secure my stereo speaker cables to the deck of the boot. If you have any boot mounted speakers or amps then it would be easier to take the stuff out for the day. I doubt that any sub boxes would get through the inspection. I was told by two of the inspectors on seporate occaisions that if it was non factory and non engineer aproved then there would be little chance of it passing a defect inspection.

CheekyR32 Proficient

CheekyR32

Posted
Posted
i know many people who have gone through with front mount intercoolers with no problems.

I have.. sounds like you needed to take a Kilo tub of vasoline into regency with you irish.. glad you got off defect...

The dude i had at regency was waaaaaaaay more chilled with me.. it literally took 10-15 minutes. He let probably about 10 things slide under the radar.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

It is now off defect:) only got one sticker on it though, but thanks for the idea Glenn:D

It came with a few nice bits, kazama turbo, bride brix seats, front/dump pipe, GTR fuel pump, tomei quickshifter, dual core radiator - which all stayed on when it went over - the turbo looks stock. Also has a full exhaust, which will be going back on when I can get an ECV for it, and Kei office sus and momo wheel.

Have a cooler coming for it, going 5 stud conversion, castor rods and need to find an EBC. Also sourced a power fc and I have a fuel pressure reg. Probably fit my oil cooler, boost and oil pressure guage. Should be going quite well pretty soon:p

The 3037 wont be going on though, tad too big for the SR20 IMHO. I have started stocking out the skyline, pretty depressing job though:(

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

It already has a brand new Kazama 350 on it, kazama buy garrett turbos and mod them to their own specs, bit like HKS only cheaper:) It is around the same size as the HKS 2540 comes in nice and early with the stock exhaust on it, so should be good when I fit the aftermarket one that is waiting.

The exhaust is a N1 type, which is why I am waiting for the ECV before I fit it, its bloody loud.

It already has front bar and skirts. The bar is a bit thrashed, but it means I wont mind destroying it further;) The rear bar needs some repairs before it can be fitted back on, but only minor - then she'll be fully sick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • MBS206
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • MBS206
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...