Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, my TX valve is blocked, and i have no idea where it is or what it looks like, im told it will either be in the engine bay or under the dash.

Does any one know/how i can get instructions/help on this issue for relitivley cheap? i know replacing this valve if its under the dash is a pain in the butt and can be expensive, but sumnmers coming and i cant wait any longer.

if you are in sydney and have done this before i will pay you to help me do it.

Thanks all

Craig

In the R33 the air-con evaporator core is behind the glove box.

Remove the glove box

Unplug anything that connects to it

Remove the 2 black clips that keep it together. (one on each end)

Undo both lines into it. (from engine bay)

should just pull out.

The TX valve sits on the core

i think you would need a professonal to do this as it is part of the air conditioning sealed system.

i could be wrong though.

yer best to get a pro.. as u sed its a sealed system and u dont want any moisture in there. plus u have to take all the gas out and vac it.

yea i know, but its goonna cost big buks if i can remember i had a VL that needed 1 and it was gonna cost like 600 to fix it...

hmmmm ill do the ring around

just get in there with a 12" and bash the **** out of it to see if it opens up.. its either stuck or blocked so just whack it :(

Once you pull out the glove box you will see...

There are a couple bolts that hold the unit onto the firewall, and jus the clips that join it to the other ducting.

A plug here or there on it too.

It is simple to get out, if you have a bit of a clue you will find it easy too.

well as being as air con fella my self ive found that a air con system i presurised so if you gunna go crackin valves or fittings be prepared for a lot of cold cas and a bit of oil exiting the system

i would get a pro to vac the system a colect the gas

it aint hard but there probaaly is a reason its blocked as in something got stuck in it

so you might wanna look into it a bit more than just replacein a tx valve

just my thoughts thats all

  • 2 weeks later...
well as being as air con fella my self ive found that a air con system i presurised so if you gunna go crackin valves or fittings  be prepared for a lot of cold cas and a bit of oil  exiting the system  

i would get a pro to vac the system a colect the gas

it aint hard but there probaaly is a reason its blocked as in something got stuck in it  

so you might wanna look into it a bit more than just replacein a tx valve

just my thoughts thats all

thanks mate, but how much u rekon it would cost?

  • 3 weeks later...

when i first bought my r33 the air con didn't work because it was missing the belt. So replaced it and went to get the A/C regased. The guy at aircon place told me that now the compressor was caktus. I was told this was due to the tx valve blocking up and causing back pressure and resulting in the death of the A/C system. So ended up replacing the tx valve, the dryer unit and the compressor and obviously a regas. All new parts ending up costing 1000. But to me anyway well worth it rather than risking a second hand compressor unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1994 Series 3 R32 GTR. Freshly built as the perfect weekender. Has many brand new Nissan OEM pieces (some you can no longer source). Last serviced (April 2024) at V Spec Performance, Melbourne, Australia. Feel free to DM me if any questions. Asking price: $190,000 AUD.  Engine RB26DETT Original 05U block Factory R32 crankshaft CP 86.5mm forged pistons Spool forged rods Factory cylinder head – rebuilt Factory valve train Factory camshafts Factory inlet manifold Factory throttle body Garrett dash -5 turbos Custom intercooler piping with Plazmaman clamps Plazamaman 100mm race intercooler Turbosmart BOV Tomei fuel rail 660cc injectors Goodridge 9000 series fuel lines with crimped fittings Stainless steel front pipes Tomei titanium exhaust with stainless steel cat converter Spit fire coils Powder coated rocket covers New Nissan coil pack emblem badge Fully repainted engine bay in Factory Black Refurbished ABS unit New Nissan brake master cylinder New Nissan brake lines New Nissan clutch master cylinder New Nissan washer bottles Custom catch can (powder coated with Goodridge lines) Steering rack rebuilt New Nissan power steering lines New Nissan AC lines A/C compressor refurbished AC condenser refurbished HPI radiator and new thermos fanes New radiator fans NOTE: All nuts, bolts, fixings new or zinc coated Driveline Factory 5 speed gear box rebuilt Xtreme twin plate clutch Stainless steel clutch line Rebuilt factory transfer case Custom one-piece tail shaft Rebuilt factory front diff Rebuilt factory rear diff Suspension HICAS deleted Bilstein dampers IKEYA formular front and rear arms and tie rod ends New bushes wherever possible Whiteline anti roll bars (underneath car only) Brakes Brembo F50 front callipers – 4 piston AP racing 380*32 front rotors, J Hook design Custom floating hat and calliper mounts Brembo 4 piston rear callipers PFC pads Stainless steel braided brake lines Body New Factory Black paint job Ceramic coated exterior panels New Nissan aluminium bonnet (super rare) New Nissan headlights (super rare) New Nissan indicators New Nissan front bar New Nissan front lower lip New Nissan head light and bonnet seals New Nissan windscreen cowling New Nissan wiper arms and wiper blades New aftermarket windscreen New Nissan windscreen seal New Nissan front doors window surrounds and seals New Nissan rear quarter windows (must replace for proper paint job) New Nissan rear window surrounds and seals New Nissan side skirts New Nissan boot badges New Nismo rear bonnet lip New Nissan guard liners Interior New Nissan lens cover over cluster New Nissan gear boot shift New Nissan gear knob New Nismo steering wheel New Nismo floor mats New Billet Handbrake lever New Nissan OEM pocket facia to replace radio Underbody Original stone guard removed and new stone guard coating applied Powder coated front and rear cross members Fuel lines painted to match factory colours Fuel tank removed, cleaned, repainted and refitted All nuts and fixings cleaned, repaired and zinc plated Wheels Rays/Volk racing TE37 18 x 10.5 + 15 in Bronze Yokahama A050 265 x 35 x 18                         
    • @Supernanoyour car has ended up in my hands and I was wondering if there has been any work done to the motor?  
    • Sigh... yeah OEM mount rear battery, very R33, very demure, very mindful.
    • Would need a substantial current draw in the car to make a bunch of sparks. Obvs to now test resistance to ground of the car's B+ lead. If there's a short there, you'll see it. Only likely place for that, as you suspect is alternator. But there is also the possibility that rats have had a chew on some insulation. Shitbox has the battery in the boot, yeah? Plenty of cable to attack.
    • Oh, I thought of that too... I disconnected the battery and hooked up the leads direct to the car without the battery in place. Sparks... I suspect the following: Alternator has decided to kill itself Starter has decided to kill itself I'll recharge the battery, then unplug both, and go from there. The above might take 6 months - however I did buy a Victron 15 AMP trickle charger, apparently it's better than CTEK? Amazon, delivery by tonight. https://www.amazon.com.au/Victron-Battery-Charger-15-Amp-waterproof/dp/B07P4LMMMD?ref_=ast_sto_dp    
×
×
  • Create New...