Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice.  So if you putter around you can still get pretty good figures.  CHris you are making some good no.s  lookingat your sig.  

How bad is that traffic that you are getting 11L/100k?

the traffic is typical to and from work traffic I guess, I travel 25k's to and from work and it takes around 45mins to a hour depending on how heavy the traffic is.

Highway driving I average around 8-9 litres per 100kms, but I give it a bit every now and then, I love over taking commodore drivers :rofl:

On the track I had quite appaling economy, I did almost 80 km's on the track in total and used a massive 38 litres of petrol, but I guess you are either accelerating or stopping, so that is to be expected

With a clean set of injectors, decent wheel allignment (that makes a decent differance) and a working o2 sensor, you 'should' be able to get 400kms to a tank no probs

Chris

In 1 year/20000km I've replaced the alternator & my heater box has had to be bypassed due to leakage. Some of the front end rubbers are on the way out I think though.

I replaced the turbs (upgraded - old one seems fine though), timing belt & all fluids not long after getting the car.

Its an 89 with high kms & has been in the country for 8 or 9 years. I get 8 or 9L/100km on the highway & 13L/100km in traffic. This is with 11psi, R34 turbs, 3in turbo back & filter.

If fuel economy is a big issue stick to NA cars :rofl:

.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
×
×
  • Create New...