Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 223
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I'd love to know Paul's secret to 450HP. I'm nearly there - with similar turbo (larger rear housing). Dude did you have an exhaust on your car when you got the 450 ?

 

This is 23 PSI - ( get no difference in power from 21 PSI upwards - tried 25 PSI today and 2 rwkw less - same dyno)

B-man, That was with a 3" exhaust and no cat, 45mm external wastegate. We found that pushing the boost much higher wasn't producing anymore power either, but we're unsure whether it was the turbo or the cams running out of puff. We'll be changing the cams soon, and failing that may try the GT30R.

maybe SST Steve can help here, is the reason Wolfs can make the power they do on standard injectors or standard GTR injectors because of the way they fire the injectors, Is it something along the lines of 2 squirts per fire rather then one (sorry no idea how to explain what I mean but I'm sure Steve will understand:) )

We are replacing the gearbox then of to the drags with a new set Street ETs.

Last year this car was running 411rwhp on stock pistons and injectors and ppl said that we were lieing then the car went on one of these ppls dyno and made 436rwhp.

its not still running stock injectors is it???

My sard 550cc injectors read 80% duty cycle at 320rwkw so 330cc stock injectors will be reading 120% duty cycle at those power levels.

Anyway highest i have got with GT30/40 0.70 comp and 0.86 rear is 322kw@wheels at 1.4bar stock internals at selectamaz dyno day which i havent got a graph for either.

car comes on boost hard at 4000-4200rpm with the 0.86 rear and lights tyres up 2nd and sometime start of third, so i hate to think how the power delivery with a 0.63 housing gives.

I got a graph from autosalon where it pulled 312kw@wheels indoors in hot conditions. The 322kw@wheels was in a 12 degree day outdoor dyno.

0.87 housing and 0.63 housing is quite a difference!!

I like it much better when i accelerate and i am actually moving forward and not just sliging along with wheel spin. Have you tried a bigger housing? you might see more power with more boost then as ur exhaust housing must be causing a restriction

I have now been convinced as to what people have been saying for a long time, Dyno graphs dont mean jack shit.

My car is currently in a Bayswater workshop in VIC getting some mods done.

The workshop in question has a brand spankers DD 4wd dyno.

This workshop together with APS built and developed a twin turbo kit for the LS1 engine.

On there own dyno the car made 460rwkw. On the APS dyno it made 510rwkw both times on RACE FUEL.

The car recently went interstate for a Holden vs Ford gig and won the dyno comp with a ridiculous 650rwkw on PUMP FUEL. Go figure.

The owner of the workshop showed just how easy it is to make a dyno read a lot lot higher than it should.

One example was to "manipulate" the dynos temp sensor for a higher reading in shootout mode.

The next example, and one I did not know about was that supposedly each car that goes onto the dyno is meant to be calibrated so that when the car is doing 100km/h so is the dyno.

He ran the same car twice in a row, one time with the dyno geared correctly and once with the geariing tweaked a tad.

The difference was amazing, the outright power wasnt that much higher, but higher nonetheless but the average power was about 20kw greater all the way across. Overlapping the two graphs you would think they were two different cars.

So to all the people who write "dynos are just a tuning tool and power graphs should be taken with a grain of salt" I 100% agree with you.

Yeah, I have thought about changing the housings, but I don't want to loose the nice spread of power I have. May try a GT30R on to see how it goes.

GTS-t VSPEC or Steve-SST,

which GT30 core do u have now, can u provide the CHRA number?

it might be worth your while to go up to an A/R .82 exhaust housing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...