Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 223
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I consider myself to know a reasonable amount about cars and I have seen lots of Sydney Kid's posts and I have never seen anything false written by him. Its not like I say 'Oh that sounds like hes right'. Instead its like 'Well **** me, hes right again'.

He does seem to struggle with camshafts but :) haha. I don't know who this Steve clown is, but I hope he doesn't claim to be a performance workshop of any sort.

Anyone that drags their car is SOFT.  :flamed:  

Hell, you dont even know how to slow a car with the brake, so you run off and throw on a parachute :flamed:  

Drag racing is for shielas....drag racing is for those that arent allowed to play in the sandpit anymore....drag racing is for the mentally defective... drag racing is for people that rely on electric toothbrushes to do a task as simple as cleaning ones teeth...drag racers drink cordial and Bacardi Breezers....DRAG RACERS ARE SOFT :flamed:      

...it appears Drag Racers can take things a little too seriously :Oops:

here here!Damn who would spend so much money just to drive there car 400 metres?:) If I personally wanted to do it....id just buy a set of rails and be done with it :rant:

Just sounds like to me anyway that "SST" is trying to drum up business on there. I have been to 2 treads now and all they are saying is "Our Team Cars Have xxxhp arn't we good". But i dont see drag slips and I don't see SAU putting there figures up there. They are running a business i suppose, not trying to drum up business they don't have!!!!! But that is my opinion. Opinions are like @rseholes everyone has one.

Back on track, have a look at my graph and look at the fuel curve, what sort of gains to be had with a tune you reckon?

http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/events...results/007.GIF

I reckon I'll get a boost controller before I go for 1.2~1.2 bar. This run was at a little under 1.0bar

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...