R30 Purists

[0HR-30T]

Mine was a factory auto

[hrd-hr30]

check your manufacturers plate for diff ratio

my manual HR30 is totally original (at the moment) and has a 4.11 R200

[stagefumer11]

mine is 3.9 factory.

[BensDR30]

Atmos were 4.11's, Turbos - 3.90. At least in the DR-family.....

[hrd-hr30]

Atmos were 4.11's, Turbos - 3.90. At least in the DR-family.....

OK, looks like it could be the same for HRs too. Mine was L20E from factory according to manufacturer plate, but had the L20ET when I bought it.

[dodgsun]

and... i've got an original HR30 with L20t (l20a) and tho it's ok (not really).. i'd love to put a L24/L28 into it!!... why?.. cause every other wanker has a RB!! b different go old skool!!! REMEMBER most of the people that will see it are too young to understand the raw power (?) of a L series revving off it's nut!! Hell put a VH45 into tha sucker!! if i could find a good 240K coupe in perth Thats what i'd do!! bugger ya all i'm going to bed!

[Adam_RSX]

L series are just about the best sounding non-exotic engines ever

[stu_r30]

if anyones interested i have some L24 that i need to palm off, PM me if ya keen

[machg]

Given the cost and rarity of good L28E blocks, has anyone thought of using an L28D bottom end with a de-compression plate and L20ET head, manifolds etc. etc. The bottom end would be indestructible given that its made to handle 23?:1 compression ratio.

machg

[stagefumer11]

really in the long term the compression still would be to high, which would make tunning impossible. the best option is to take the L28 and chuck the LD crank. and so forth.

The LD28 with l20 turbo intake manifold runners are to long which is good for low down torque but stangles the top end so that manifold would not be adiqit. the l28 one would work much better.

The l20et exhasut manifold is the same accross all L turbo motors, even for the astranged l24et motor. It is listed on nissan's system.

[BensDR30]

Given the cost and rarity of good L28E blocks, has anyone thought of using an L28D bottom end with a de-compression plate and L20ET head, manifolds etc. etc. The bottom end would be indestructible given that its made to handle 23?:1 compression ratio.

 

 machg

I respectfully disagree,

The L28 was available in at least 3 different models in Australia - 280ZX, 280C & the Patrol. The LD28 was not released on the Australian market at all.

The LD28 block is also a mid-height block (same as L20b), which could make fitting an issue. the L20A/24/26/28 & L13/14/16/18 are all 'short' blocks, while some of the Z blocks are taller again.

A mildly-prepped L28ET (custom, or factory) will turn 300HP on standard internals with good tuning. The LD28-crank option is a bit of a mixed blessing. It gives you the potential to go out to nearly 3.2L, with lots of low-down torque, and a healthy power output. But this is at the expense of rod/stroke ratio and total rpms. Balancing is also critical on a stroker.

Ideally you need to use L14 rods (which are longer than L24) and a very short skirt piston in order to make the best of the combination.

I considered buiding my twin-turbo L28 as a 3L stroker, but have decided that block rigidity & ease of construction were more important than an extra 200cc's. My LD28 crank will therefore stay in the shed...

I've also considered building a very over-square engine by mating an L20A crank to an L28 bottom end. I'm sure I could crack 10,000rpm if I tried hard enough!