Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well guys,

I have found an LD28 crank and an L28 modified block to suit the front mounted sump pan, that our R30's have, so it looks like it's all go and 3098 looks very likely now.

Should be cool with a stock engine number.

Trying to find a P90 head, if anyone knows any Datsun Zed wreckers in their local.

You could try Z16 . As for motor preference its your call , arguably the RB would be smoother, cleaner more fuel efficient while generating more power . The RB's are far more durable and built around finer tolerances making them mechanically quieter . The rod stroke ratio is better and the RB25/26 head light years in front of any L Series production item . The L Series will fall in once the alternate oil gallery and pick up/sump pan are used , and look vaguely std . Once it gets the turbo and intercooler plumbing in there goes the std look .

My choise would be the RB because of its power potential . Easy lazy torque , lots of aftermarket parts available and from a re-sale point of view you'll get more for the RB .

If you really do want the PNA to be original and std why not keep it that way . The real purists will pick an L20A from an L28 any time , they are rare which makes them desirable - if not powerful !

  • 3 weeks later...

i guess alot of you are forgetting the power that you can easly get out of any L serries motor. im sure some of you's may know that all L's come with forged Crank and rods. a simple mod to the pistons and you away.

millin the skirts down and putting in a floating pin. system and arp rod bolts. ive seen it.

1 l20et with those mod's running on a link ecu. with a large turbo and 550cc injectors revving to 8300rpm. so......... guess what power it makes. its close to 400 and its a race boat. in my eyes the L serries by far.

yes i know rb's are moden ect. but there is something about the old stuff, sound ect

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to. The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered) the BOV Is set way too high. Got to love the RB20DET....

Yeah but I had to find out whether the BOV was bleeding the boost or if it was the wastegate or if I had a leak somewhere. Found out that I needed to bleed more boost and that the BOV was set too high. Adjusted both and now she spools to 14.5psi and builds to 16 psi. Power is now officially insane. (Well for me it is)

Remember that the ECU stops the motor if it hits 19psi and the BOV was working. I backed off the throttle gently rather than snapping the throttle off so it didn't do a 30psi spike.

How else can you test these things??

Any way my point being that this 2500 set up including engine is probably the cheapest way to make these things go seriously quick.

Your ecu may stop the party at 19psi,but that doesn't mean the injectors have enough fuel to support 19psi!!! Not to mention skyrocketing inlet temps.Both these things can kill a motor quick smart! Backing off the throttle gently has no relation to boost spikes what so ever....All that may achieve is not stalling the turbo badly. There is better ways to set up/test your combo,yes :D

$2500 spent on the original FJ20 would also make it 'seriously quick' :D

On the RB20DET ECCS I disconnected the waste gate tonight to see what the engine would boost to.  The engine cut out when it hit 19 psi (That was the max the ECU is set to) It went fairly smartly up to 7000 rpm in second gear (120kmh before the boost limiter interfered)  the BOV Is set way too high.  Got to love the RB20DET....

are you doing this with a stock rb20 turdo or something else, you'll find that the ecu will cut off the fuel at that kind of psi?.. my boost gauge only reads 11psi at full boost and im going into third around 110km???

No, the turbo I got because my stock one shat itself is good for at least 20psi on a 2ltr according to the turbo engineering guy in Thomastown (no ceramic wheel) and at 16psi the injectors have got enough to run very rich. I have a link hand held controller that tells me that they are still not at their full duty cycle.

I have a supra IC which does plently enough for cooling given the temps recorded on the dyno with the new turbo running higher pressure than the stock one which started to heat up at over 12psi and lose power. On the dyno the current one didn't lose power at 16psi.

To give you an indication of the size of the turbo, the outlet pipe from the turbo is about 12mm bigger in diameter than the stock one (the original fits inside the new.)

What if your car didn't come with an FJ20? Then you'd be up for the purchase price of that too.

7000 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 112kmh

7000 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 118kmh

7500 rpm 3.9 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 120kmh

7500 rpm 3.7 diff ratio 1.902 2nd gear = 126kmh

Depending on my diff ratio it could have been either of these, don't know what the HR30 coupe final drive is but I know it is less than 4:1 . It all happened pretty quickly and I was lookin more at the boost . The speedo may be inaccurate or it may have bounced up to 120kmh. I normally start to go for third at 6000 which I am normally at around 6200-6300 before it happens (if I'm in the mood to wind her out)

What does causes boost spikes then?

Can anyone tell me what my diff ratio is for sure (assuming it is standard)

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi.

My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

  • 2 months later...

Not sure if any of you remember but about a year ago i started a rebuild on an 85 model MR30 sedan. A rebuild that inlcude replacing the L24E with an RB25 DE NEO. Its been a fun year which culminated 2 weekends ago with a turn of the key and instant ignition for a second. (seems that when putting the engine in i accidently crushed the fuel rail. woops).

Not sure if any of you remember but about a year ago i started a rebuild on an 85 model MR30 sedan. A rebuild that inlcude replacing the L24E with an RB25 DE NEO. Its been a fun year which culminated 2 weekends ago with a turn of the key and instant ignition for a second. (seems that when putting the engine in i accidently crushed the fuel rail. woops).

get this i'm about to finish mine well it is finished all except for the fitting of the new seats, seats carnt be fitted till feb next year?? so i can get compliance now $165, then pay the $165 again when the seats can get done or wait till feb and get it all done for one $165 cost... its a never ending test of small annoying things thats draging this on and on and on....

I was forgetting that yours is an HR30. I guess $2500 could do a bit to the old L20ET too,but anyway you have an RB.... A "Boost spike" is usually refered to as when the turbo comes onto boost,and the wastegate fails to "catch" it. eg-if your intended boost was 20psi,and by the time the wastegate opened,and by-passed enough gas to limit the turbine speed,the boost had risen to 24psi.

My old HR30 coupe had 4.11:1 diff gears.As far as I know it was original....

HR30's had 3.9:1 ex factory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
    • Glad it eventually came out Duncan!   I believe that might be 040. 044 is the inline pump, so has screw fittings in and out. 040 is more just drop it in fuel and the bottom is "open" (mesh) from my memory 
    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid  AASA General Speed licence or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA Licenses are no longer accepted by AASA https://aasa.com.au/ A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2. Richard Hicks 3. Warren Clark 4. Luca Stamatescu 5. Tony Buckland 6. Min Chan 7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
×
×
  • Create New...