Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought the car with this and the guy thought he was running 14psi. But the boost gauge keeps telling me its running stock. I took it off the car and the boost was running the same ie.stock. I tried it on my friends S15 and same result. The digital display says 14psi but running stock on his car.

Would it be a prob with the solenoid? and if so... how can i try and fix it?

If it cant be fixed? is there anywhere where they would sell a dual solenoid on its own?

Any help would be great..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49276-need-help-with-blitz-sbc-id/
Share on other sites

as far as i know it has... my firend with the s15 is a mech and he put his in ok.. but his is a profec... and we also tried it on his car too... unless he hooked it up wrong aswell.

im not sure how to set it up to read correctly as there was no manual and i have no idea how to use it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
    • And other times you just need to go buy bigger injectors?
    • Yup. I actually just blew my turbo. LOL.  should have checked this thread before today. i also have no boost solenoid. so it should be...one line from wastegate to turbo inlet, and a T somewhere in that line that connects to the wastegate return pipe?
    • It's recommended, however I can assure you a good amount of people don't bother. FWIW, the OEM battery lasted 4.5 years and I changed it prematurely too, I reckon could have stretched it to 5 years.
    • Are you telling me I'm going to need a code reader etc to just change the battery when it dies...  Why did I let you talk me into allowing Kate to buy this car lol  
×
×
  • Create New...