Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This may sound like a silly question but what gauges do you guys deem as essential for a turbo car? I see a lot of cars kicking round with a million gauges on them but the question is would really bother on a street car?

Of course the first response will always be Boost gauge but after that how do the other gauges rate?

Temp gauges? Air/Fuel gauges?

Any feedback appreciated.

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4929-essential-gauges-for-a-turbo-car/
Share on other sites

Besides the stock gauges that come with the car, Ie. speedo, tacho, fuel, etc I personally don't think you need that many gauges unless your doing circuit racing.

If you're simply running on the strip and the occasional squirt on the street, I'd suggest a boost gauge and more accurate oil temp.

I only run a digital boost gauge attached to my timer. The only real reason I've got it is for tuning purposes. I wouldn't really use one any other time as the Autronic combined with the wastegate controls the boost quite well.

I don't even have a boost controller in the car.

Originally posted by INASNT

talking about gauges, i have been lookin for an air-intake temp gauge to monitor intake air temp!

havent been able to find 1 but

Jaycar sell's a digital LCD temp meter that is pretty quick.

I think it measures -40 to +120 or something. I bought one and played around with it for a while and it works well. It doesn't look that good, so it's not something you've mount permanently.

OH - it has an alarm function too, so you can set it for say 40 degrees and if it goes past that a buzzer goes off, I was thinking about hooking the buzzer output to a relay and operating a intercooler water sprayer to it. But it's best to spray the intercooler before it gets too hot....

But I suppose you could just have the temp adjusted down a bit so it comes on sooner...

I think I just opened up a big can of worms here..............

The only one you really need is a boost gauge.

The rest are a waste of money, normally people on a skyline upgrades there ecu to a power fc & power fc reads boost/water temp/knock sensor/injector duty cycle & a few more that i cant remember.

Look dont waste money on gauges & waste it on something usefull like new injectors or something :mad:

Originally posted by Jay95R33

Jaycar sell's a digital LCD temp meter that is pretty quick.

I think it measures -40 to +120 or something.  I bought one and played around with it for a while and it works well.  It doesn't look that good, so it's not something you've mount permanently.

OH - it has an alarm function too, so you can set it for say 40 degrees and if it goes past that a buzzer goes off, I was thinking about hooking the buzzer output to a relay and operating a intercooler water sprayer to it.  But it's best to spray the intercooler before it gets too hot....

But I suppose you could just have the temp adjusted down a bit so it comes on sooner...

I think I just opened up a big can of worms here..............

so when r u putting yours in?

Seems to me you need some accurate monitoring equipment to do some testing if you are going to seriously modify your car. But unless you are trying to diagnose a problem having your car look like the flight deck of an aircraft is just a wank.

I have several pressure gauges with large scales that can be used to measure: Fuel pressure, oil pressure, boost pressure, exhaust manifold pressure, and exhaust pipe pressure at various points. A homemade water manometer is also useful for measuring low pressures in the induction system.

A digital thermometer with remote readout is absolutely vital.

An airflow meter is a handy thing to have, and so is a sound level meter.

A multimeter is very good to have, as is a compression gauge and timing light.

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

Oil temp guage. R owners know hot the oil gets when they've been thrashing their cars around. GTS-t owners would be surprised how quickly the oil temp shoots up.

Your right on.

The first gauges I got were a boost gauge and an oil temp gauge.

Normal driving is around 65 degrees. Give it a bootfull and it'll shoot upto 85-90.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes...but look at the numbers. There is a tiny tiny fraction of the number of Joules available, compared to what is used/needed. Just because things are "possible" doesn't make them meaningful.
    • Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
×
×
  • Create New...