Jump to content
SAU Community

Very dodgy Ebay auction. Check this out!


Recommended Posts

I had a quick look around here in case someone else has noticed this auction. Click the link below.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...me=STRK:MEWA:IT

It's a 2000 model R34 GTR, far from standard. Whn I emailed the guy I goy an email back with some story about him being overseas and needing to sell the car in a hurry. The reserve is AU$15,000! It has to be hot.

Does anyone know anything about this car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah I got the same dodgy email in return for my query too. I emailed him back telling him he was a scammer and wishing him good luck in finding an Aussie stupid enough to fall for his scam. I reckon he had another R34 GTR on there under a different name listed in a different state that he tried to sell me for $8700! It has mysteriously dissapeared though... Beware!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah saw this yesterday :D COD sounds good to me haha

Says he'd prefer to make the deal in person....as he busts a cap in yo ass....and runs off with the loot :D

Then again how else would you buy a car? "leave the keys in the third bin from the corner on Ann st" :(

Get a REVS check done, if it's got a clear title and isn't stolen, why not make a bid on it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get's dodgier by the minute.

Another guy on there (Roguepi is his ID) alsways has some absolutely awesome parts listed yet most of his auctions are cancelled at the last minute.

I downloaded that picture a few weeks ago, not from ebay though it was from a Skylines Australia user

but it does not have the digital camera picture down the bottom

Very DODGEY maybe in house scam from user among us.......................................

Just a thought

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i sent him a message asking if i offered him $90,000 if he would cancel the auction and sell to me and asking for his banking details so i can wire the money to him.

Waiting for his reply and to see if if he gives me his name and details :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • normally i don't like to get involed with these kinds of self promotions stuff, but good on you for living your dream man.
    • Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.
    • That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
×
×
  • Create New...