Jump to content
SAU Community

Very loud whistiling noise in engine bay once car has been turned off!!

4bella

By 4bella,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

4bella Collaborator

4bella

Posted
Posted

Just wondering if anyone knows or has any ideas about this loud whistling noise that goes on for 2 secs straight after my car has turned off.... i try hearing where it comes from and its definately near the turbo/manifold/compressor area....was thinking it might be the bearings....but my t28 turbo runs perfectly and boosts up properly and even on high boost....

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I had a really loud whistling noise once the car warmed up once.

Popped the bonnet couldn't see anything.

It was a pin hole in the top radiator hose.

What I found interesting is at first there was no signs of steam.

Just a damn loud whistling noise.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
Just wondering if anyone knows or has any ideas about this loud whistling noise that goes on for 2 secs straight after my car has turned off.... i try hearing where it comes from and its definately near the turbo/manifold/compressor area....was thinking it might be the bearings....but my t28 turbo runs perfectly and boosts up properly and even on high boost....

mine does this too.. Sounds liek the car is sucking back or something..

Not sure but I'll monitor this thread and let you know if I find the problem.

Its just as you shut the motor off right? ass soon as it stops you get a suck back kind of noise?

4bella Collaborator

4bella

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It sounds just like a kookaburra. no joke, i know it sounds weird and funny but it sounds just like it and goes for like 2-3 seconds...even whe im just idling at the lights waiting...it sometimes goes off again....its definately near the turbo area....

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
It sounds just like a kookaburra. no joke, i know it sounds weird and funny....

Are you sure you didn't suck a kookaburra into your engine while you had the air filter off? That would cause a kookaburra noise.

I think it happens a lot with the bonnet scoop on the WRX sti as well, birds and small children often get sucked into the engine

BBQ Community Regular

BBQ

Posted
Posted

Check your belts, eg, alternator, power steering, A/C if all are ok maybe your timing belt pulley is seising up, it tends to try and jump off the pulleys on down revs,

How many km on the clock? if 100,000km it will be due for timing belt change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...