Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR lifters fit 25 head?

Jaws

By Jaws,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jaws Enthusiast

Jaws

Posted
Posted

The engine and head in question is an rb25 head/30block.

The head is off a R33 RB25DET and has VCT.

1. Can I use GTR solid lifters replacing the RB25 hydraulic lifters?I would be using cams to suit solid lifters of coz, I assume I would need the GTR followers too.

TOMEI lists different ones for the 25 and 26. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...r_engindex.html

This looks like an expensive exercise.

2. Are VG30 and CA18 lifters hydraulic as standard?.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49502-gtr-lifters-fit-25-head/
Share on other sites
proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

You wouldn't be able to do a straight swap for the rb26 buckets as they will sit down too deep in the lifter bore. The 26 also runs a different retainer as it has a recess in the top to locate the adjustment shim. The 25 has the HLA built into the bucket and the tip of the valve sits a fair bit deeper in the head in relation to the base circle of the cam than the 26 valve does.

There are also 2 different spring setups on the RB25 so you need to be careful that you order to suit what you have.

I would say the aftermarket solids for the 25 are designed to take up this extra distance with a longer "foot" inside the bucket that sits down onto the shim. Do they also sell the retainers and shims with the cam and buckets? The standard retainers have no way to locate the shim.

Yep, the CA18 and VG both run hydraulics.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
You wouldn't be able to do a straight swap for the rb26 buckets as they will sit down too deep in the lifter bore. The 26 also runs a different retainer as it has a recess in the top to locate the adjustment shim. The 25 has the HLA built into the bucket and the tip of the valve sits a fair bit deeper in the head in relation to the base circle of the cam than the 26 valve does.

There are also 2 different spring setups on the RB25 so you need to be careful that you order to suit what you have.

I would say the aftermarket solids for the 25 are designed to take up this extra distance with a longer "foot" inside the bucket that sits down onto the shim. Do they also sell the retainers and shims with the cam and buckets? The standard retainers have no way to locate the shim.

Yep, the CA18 and VG both run hydraulics.

Spot on, the only thing I can add is when doing a solid conversion on an RB25 cylinder head we use GTR valves, GTR valve guides, GTR valve spings (std or aftermarket), GTR collets, GTR retainers and (obviously) GTR buckets. :rant:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      A little PU bush story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end a made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
    • Kinkstaah
      A little PU bush story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      As someone who has pineapples, and horrible axle tramp... should I change these to collars? Is that what you're saying here? Why did you choose these instead of getting pineapples where you said you had good experiences of? I'd love to even attempt to get rid of axle tramp, I either get complete bogginess or absolute insane wheelspin, anything even remotely in between results in filling-removal axle tramp, to the point where launching the car is just not something I do.
    • Kinkstaah
      Does 98ron contain ethanol?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Lucky for that, because putting ethanol in fuel only lowers the bulk cost of fuel if it's in 91 Add it to 98, 85% of it even and it quintuples in price. Strange physics. f**k you United, Gouging c***ts.
    • GTSBoy
      Will I Need A Retune After Cahanging My Catalytic Converter ?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Not noticeably. Arguably, the catless turbo is going to work harder in a different direction, as it will spool up faster, go to higher speeds more easily. Only if it was tuned in the original condition. If it was a stock tune, using the AFM before and after the cat/dump change, then no, no retune needed. If the car is running on a MAP sensor, then it might well benefit from a retune. It might even run a little dangerously without a retune, but it could quite easily be fine.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Does 98ron contain ethanol?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      We had this blend that uses 98RON + 10% Ethanol which brought it to 100RON. It's no longer available anymore unfortunately.
×
×
  • Create New...