Stalling automatic

[E_Lu-SHuN]

I've just recently got a bigger turbo install'd, and the car keeps STALLING even if i dont hit boost. The cars pretty much standard except for the turbo now, am i missing something?.. an aftermarket ecu? being that my car is automatic makes me kinda feel reluctant to get one.

Or could there be another option to it?

oh and another thing, is there any way of making the turbo spool up any earlier than 3500rpm?

[WazR32GTSt]

woah a number of issues you have there

to answer your first question (ie why is it stalling) i would say check for an air leak in the cooler pipes

but you say your car is standard apart from the bigger turbo... i ask why? if you don't have exhaust/filter/cooler/fuelpump/ecu then why are you goign the turbo route? you may find that it gives you no more power with that shitty intercooler and stock exhaust...

good luck anyway.

Waz.

[E_Lu-SHuN]

ok i stand corrected, by pretty much standard i mean.

Full exhaust, no hi'flow cat though

fmic

oil cooler

thas bout it.

[Fro-Daddy]

this was happening to my mates commo (yes a commo), it only stalled coz he thrashed it too much...

get higher compression pistons n itl spool faster...

[knore]

does it stall at idle? Or just driving normally?

Or only when you hit boost?

[E_Lu-SHuN]

it just stalls when u drive normal, when releasing the gas pedal.

or if i free rev it high, it will stall.

[Sydneykid]

Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate. The result is a stronger idle. You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well.

The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU. If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction. If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go. There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session.

Hope that helps

[E_Lu-SHuN]

Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate.  The result is a stronger idle.  You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well.

The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU.  If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction.  If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go.  There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session.

Hope that helps

Hi SydneyKid, You seem to know alot when it comes to these things i pressume.

I was told about adjusting the idle but the car idles fine, bout 800rpm. But when i free rev it, its drops down low enough to stall. Same goes with driving.

A few q's.

If it was the airflow meter, would it be idleing rough? But it aiint, so it couldnt be?

I dont have a hi`flow cat. problem?

and one last thing, i noticed there's a hose bout 1" in diameter coming from the top of the engine bay that is not connect'd to anything, just sitting there unblocked. no idea where it goes or where it came from. Attached is a pic of wat hose im talkin bout.

Thanx for your time

[E_Lu-SHuN]

Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate.  The result is a stronger idle.  You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well.

The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU.  If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction.  If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go.  There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session.

Hope that helps

Hi SydneyKid, You seem to know alot when it comes to these things i pressume.

I was told about adjusting the idle but the car idles fine, bout 800rpm. But when i free rev it, its drops down low enough to stall. Same goes with driving.

A few q's.

If it was the airflow meter, would it be idleing rough? But it aiint, so it couldnt be?

I dont have a hi`flow cat. problem?

and one last thing, i noticed there's a hose bout 1" in diameter coming from the top of the engine bay that is not connect'd to anything, just sitting there unblocked. no idea where it goes or where it came from.

Thanx for your time

[predator]

.. thats the cam oil breather return

Is it actually blocked? usually it runs to some snake type pipework

[E_Lu-SHuN]

itnis not blocked, its just hanging there...

[Angry]

why are u reluctant to get a aftermarket ecu? it'll save u so much hassles in terms of tuning out problems like this. plenty of others have done this b4 .....why not do the same

it would b my first expenditure if i had that sort of mods done.

go the dip on a ecu m8

MT

[predator]

i think thats your problem right there.. any pressure leak results in stalling and other stupid crap.. block it off properly at both ends (where its supposed to go also).. or connect it back up tomorrow and your problem should go away.

[lukits01]

Hey I have the same problem and my car is also an automatic

I had a little mishap awhile back and had to replace my exhaust cam with HKS 256

It ran ok for awhile but the idle started to get rougher and rougher

now it stalls sometimes at the lights and if I free rev it, it would stall

Cold starts are horrible have to pump some gas and the engine takes awhile to start (can hear this strange clicking noise as well)

sometimes when Im driving and I let go of the throttle, the engine would start struggling (can hear popping in the exhaust)

My mechanic seems to think there's something wrong with the timing, something about the CAS sending the wrong info to the ECU. But it seems ok at higher revs or when the car is allready rolling

Is this just because standard ECU cant take 256 ex cam? or is the CAS screwed? or maybe the cam wasnt installed correctly?

[knore]

Hi SydneyKid, You seem to know alot when it comes to these things i pressume.

I was told about adjusting the idle but the car idles fine, bout 800rpm. But when i free rev it, its drops down low enough to stall. Same goes with driving.  

A few q's.

If it was the airflow meter, would it be idleing rough? But it aiint, so it couldnt be?

I dont have a hi`flow cat. problem?

and one last thing, i noticed there's a hose bout 1" in diameter coming from the top of the engine bay that is not connect'd to anything, just sitting there unblocked. no idea where it goes or where it came from. Attached is a pic of wat hose im talkin bout.

Thanx for your time

I bet thats your problem, when putting my catch can on, if these arent connected the engine hunts for idle all over the place, mine didnt stall, but it did make the idle go nuts.

btw- im changing my turbo soon on an auto aswell, i just got safc2 and sitc ages back, will do what i need nicely and lots cheaper.

[Coxy_]

I think get the new computer for it though- but if its a tiptronic watch out!!!! I have a power fc for mine but it wont work- you have to get a piggy back or something for it I think

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49298

[E_Lu-SHuN]

Thanks for ur help guys, but i fink its the afm. i ran a diagnostic checkup and it read out a problem with the MASS AIR FOLW SENSOR.

im gonna try out my friends afm and hopefully it will solve my problems.,..

cheers.

ill get back later and tell u guys the result

[E_Lu-SHuN]

oh btw..is the afm same as the r33?

[lukits01]

Check whats the color of the sticker on the AFM

There's a pink sticker and a green one

I know the series II R33 have pink AFM

btw how did you do the diagnostic check up?

[E_Lu-SHuN]

my friend works at a nissan dealer shop and yeh he had the diagnostic remote computer. pretty funky item knowing that it costs more then wot my car is worth.

my afm sticker is pink. so does that mean i have to use a s2 r33 afm? or will a s1 green sticker still work?