Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
We have a ball bearing hi flowed RB25DET turbo on our RB20 DET and it makes 225 rwkw (~380 bhp) at 1.3 bar (19 psi).  It makes 165 rwkw (~300 bhp) at 0.9 bar (13 psi).

Thanks SK, I always wondered if in the real world 1PSI=10kW?

By your example it looks like a reasonable rule of thumb.

Now if I can just pump 50PSI into my RB20DET, I should be able to do 10's :D

Thanks SK, I always wondered if in the real world 1PSI=10kW?

By your example it looks like a reasonable rule of thumb.

Umm, not always. I have tried a larger turbo, one with more airflow, and it made more power at lower boost. But the average power was crap, so this one is faster. :rofl:

quote: LOL...get a TD06, makes 180something rwkws at 0.65bar. Only it needs 4500rpm to make that boost

If you have owned your car for a while and its been pretty healthy then id say you wont have any problems with 300hp. Whats that 190-200rwkws...

__________________

For Sale - Trust TD06-20G setup

Piccie HERE

its more like 220- 225rwkws

Doc, can you get your hands on a rb25 turbo at all as it might be an idea to bolt one on to get a different turbo responce going, also with the last dyno result you got it seems very low rwkw's for the mods you have, evey tuners guide and rb20det rwkw thread i've read seems to point to around the 160rwkw mark for the mods you have and a standard turbo running 14psi, get someone who can play with the link system to dyno the car for you as i think you get a much different result without to much stuffing around. (300fly wheel hp)

Matt....

The dyno reading was crap, he gets that power from manual HSVs with aftermarket computers extractors and cams. It was more power than he gets with VL turbos after installing IC and reprogramming. So his reading was shit. I rang the guy with the dyno and they get a reading of 150rwkw for a worked VY(?) Monaro with way over 300fwkw. So I don't think he knows what he is doing either.

I get 15psi at 3200 rpm so it isn't a huge turbo. I just don't know what it is but I know it has been rebuilt and there is nothing ceramic in it.

I get 15psi at 3200 rpm so it isn't a huge turbo. I just don't know what it is but I know it has been rebuilt and there is nothing ceramic in it.

post up some pics here say with it sitting next to the standard rb20det turbo someone may have a ruff idea, also with the supra fmic set up you have that might be keeping to much heat in the air as a mate here also runs one with his r31/rb20det and always runs hi-temp's, at least 20degrees higher than mine all the time. good luck with it all...

What has boost pressure got to do with coil packs?? RPM and coils are related but the amount of fuel and air being pushed in are nothing to do with the ignition.

BTW, the car crapped itself on Friday (dud wire going into the back of the EFI relay). While fixing it I found 2 boost leaks from the manifold to the charcoal canister. So I blocked one and rerouted the other to the BOV. It boosts damn hard now, it comes on like a kick up the backside.

Yeah, a RB20DET + TD06 running .65bar and making 300hp will not be as fast  as a RB20DET + RB25 turbo running closer to 1bar and making 300hp....

I dont think thats right? It only made 180something rwkws at 8 psi measured at the inlet manifold, and i can promise you it would blow the door off the std turbo running 14psi...so highly doubt it will have too much trouble with an RB20 running an RB25 turbo :D

Not saying its the greatest setup, but comparing it to an RB25 turbo is like chalk and cheese. :P And next time back for tuning it will be getting 18psi, then it will be half a quick car.

My TD06 20G LS2 (the more letters the better :D) on my RB20DET os getting tuned up at the moment.So far its only been boosted upto 10 psi (waiting for EBC) but at this its putting out 185rwkw. Once I have EBC ill get it tuned up to 18ish psi and post the results.

What has boost pressure got to do with coil packs??  RPM and coils are related but the amount of fuel and air being pushed in are nothing to do with the ignition.

BTW, the car crapped itself on Friday (dud wire going into the back of the EFI relay). While fixing it I found 2 boost leaks from the manifold to the charcoal canister.  So I blocked one and rerouted the other to the BOV.  It boosts damn hard now, it comes on like a kick up the backside.

Hey??? Can you please explain this a weee bit more??? IE which tubes to where, etc. Cause I swear Im missing something hey.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They need to get a grip. R32 GTRs got as low as AU$8-10K at one point here.
    • You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
×
×
  • Create New...