Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Was driving in a car that was detonating the other day and wanted to know -

When an engine pings, is it cumulative damage or will it one day go bang?

I'm just wondering specifically is if a cars been pinging - is the engine dead or can I ya still drive it and have trouble free motoring?

Are there any tests that can be done by professionals to tell if an engine or turbo has been damaged by leaning out?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49581-safe-pinging-and-detonation/
Share on other sites

From memory, you can get what they call a boroscope (as in bore-o-scope) - it's like an endoscope or gastroscope in principle, they put it down the spark plug hole and can look around the cylinder without taking the head off. Good luck finding a shop that has one though! They are around, but I bet they're rare as...

pinging doesn't mean that your car is gonig to do it all the time.

Its can be

* Bad Fuel

* Ignition timing too advanced

* Bad tune

Get someone to tune the car and you'll be right.

Just because the car is pinging, doesn't mean it has a "disease" and with ping all the time. Just recitfy the problem, and get it compression tested to see if any damage was done during the time it pinged (if it was hard and bad detonation)

Is it diagnosable as to how far damage was done by a good tuner?

A leak down test will give a pretty good test. If it has any ring land damage this will show up. That and a bore-o-scope visual check and you will be safe. :)

Pinging is pre detonation of the fuel before the piston reaches tdc. (I hope im right :)) It basically sends a shockwave through the motor. Hence why pistons go....It can be caused by a few different things, like crapola carbon deposits in the combustion chamber too....cant tune it out if that happens....

In this particular example its a combination of too much boost and low-oc petrol.

Thanks for the info guys this helps a great deal !!!

Each one of those posts was excellent in helping me understand.

Great link too.

I realise it's not a disease, I was just wondering if it's worth buyin an engine I know for a fact has been subject to detonating due to overboost and low oc.

Thanks! I think I'll skip the tests and just stay clear.

In this particular example its a combination of too much boost and low-oc petrol.

Thanks for the info guys this helps a great deal !!!

Each one of those posts was excellent in helping me understand.

Great link too.

I realise it's not a disease, I was just wondering if it's worth buyin an engine I know for a fact has been subject to detonating due to overboost and low oc.

Thanks! I think I'll skip the tests and just stay clear.

The testing is neither complex nor expensive. If it means a cheaper total cost for an engine I would do it every time. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...