Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

all i did was fit a metal plate to the top of the panel filter...after a bit of trial and error found out that if you drill 19 10mm holes in this plate it will restrict the air flow to approx low 130kw at the wheels... this was tested on a dyno and i wrote up a special sheet listing all this information listing the normal power output of the skyline and then stating my new power output and the weight of the car etc then i showed some calculations and got the owner of the dyno place to sign and stamp the form etc etc made it all official and sent it into the insurance company..

Originally posted by tgriffin

How do you get a higher no claim rating if you don't have comprehensive insurance?  Or do you have it on another car?

i have a rating 2 on my daewoo but i havent had it for a year so i have to wait for that to be up...

turtle - yeah 3rd party is about all im going to get until next year... by then i should have it setup how i like it.

akeenan - 130 at the wheels? thats about what a stock R33 puts out anyway... i think one of the guys last time we went to a dyno day was only puting out just over 130rwkw and he had a s-afc, exhaust, pod and bleed valve. which will still make it too powerful.

You guys are wasting too much time. If you're that bloody worried about the legal aspects, go and get a non turbo for now. They still go better than the average commonwhore (not to mention look shit loads better), insurance with be cheaper, and they're P plate legal. Then when your off ya Ps, sell it and get a turbo.

Remember if the car is modified and certified to have less than 125kw per tonne, theres nothing stopping you from changing it back once you get the all clear. If you were pulled over or had a stack and they found mods that make the car go faster (instead of slower), your stuffed basically.

ok

well lets

officially the r33 gts-t on factory settings runs at 187kw right

but if you tested it

it wouldn't run directly 187 kw right?

prolly run about 160-170

so it would be legal then.

and witht he boost controller settings. would insurance accept that bcos u can easily just tune it back up hehe so its a bit dodgy but i guess you don't tell them that.:D

Dude i got a bov on my GTS-t but i also hav the stock bov on as well so that if i ever get pulled over they notice the stock one on. I also hav a blitz one place further down near the pod filter and its quiet but hey at least it does its job. With insurance im on third party fire and theft wit just cars and im on rating 5 so im just gonna wait till i get a better rating and go from there ! Or if i get a job go for full comp.

With gettin a GTS-t for your p's dont dude, im glad i had a shitbox to begin wit otherwise peer pressure kicks in and u start doin stupid things next thing u know u got 2 demerit points left and $500 worth of damage to your ride. Get some 80's rwd car so u know what oversteer is and how to compensate for loss of traction in the rain.

I got a 85 corona wagon for my first car and i still got it and use it as my daily driver and recently i got the R33 GTS-t and now when i wanna start work on the 33 i got a back up at least ! But like someone else said its up to u in the end but be careful dont blow it all on one car make sure u got a back up always. And yes im wit MCCR r u amased that i hav some intellect !

Originally posted by chopobo

does anyone here have BOV in their skyline?

people are telling me they are illegal in vic

BOVs are illegal if they dont vent back to the exhaust. I dunno why... its filtered, CLEAN air :confused: . The other thing is they must be quiter than 98dB (like everything else on the car).

Originally posted by riggaP

BOVs are illegal if they dont vent back to the exhaust. I dunno why... its filtered, CLEAN air :confused: . The other thing is they must be quiter than 98dB (like everything else on the car).

Bov's vent back to the intake. Wastagetes vent back to the exhaust. Both are illegal if they vent to air. BOV's if they vent completly to air in most cases make the car run extremely rich and cause higher emmissions and back firing, thats the part they don't like.

BOV's and wastagtes including vent back ones are not allowed to exceed the standard DB levels, but i don't know how they measure that. (how far or angles)

Personally I think the BOV noise is crap, sounds heaps better venting back if you have a big rampod intake (Note there illegal too) If you don't care and want the best wank value noise get an external wastgate and vent that externally via a screemer pipe.

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...