Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a r33 box in my r32 which i installed at the same time as my new engine....both new engine and box. Driving car home from workshop i noticed speedo wasnt working, and pfc wasnt giving a speed reading...ie 00km/hr

Checked the cable at the back of the speedo cluster - wasnt snapped like most people have in the 32's. Unscrewed it from the box and u could spin cable from the bottom and see it move at the top.

Now this only left the speed sensor in the box. It has the r33 end on the r32 gtr top part to convert it from electric back to cable drive.

In the pics in the bottom...the first pic shows the modified speedo drive (left) next to the std r32 gtr drive on the right. the second pic shows a close up of how the gear was sitting on the end of the shaft when i pulled it out of the box....the third pic shows how its supposed to be? (well i reinstalled it like in pic 3 and speedo works now) :P Made sure it aint coming off again!

the 4th photo shows the fixed r33 modified unit compared to the std r32 gtr unit. :P

I hope this helps someone else in future......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49866-speedo-fixed/
Share on other sites

Bingo, mine has 21 teeth as we'll, and by looking at your picture I think mine is an R32 GTR one as we'll.

Sorry to hijak and go a bit of topic here, but does anyone know any nissan speedo drive's that have more then 21 teeth on it?

I'v been doing a bit of reading up on it, and supposedly each tooth is meant to decrease the speedo by 4%, so if you measure the amount of inaccuracy you can judge whats suitable for you. If I cruise at 100kmh, my speedo reads about 115kmh, so I'd take this as an 15% degree of an inaccuracy? So I might need something with about 25 teeth on it. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/49866-speedo-fixed/#findComment-993567
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...