Jump to content
SAU Community

RB26 very noisey up top....

Guest shano2

By Guest shano2,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest shano2

Guest shano2

Posted
Posted

A mate of mine was playing with his newly fitted HKS adjustable cam gears on an otherwise stock R32 GTR (90mm HKS exhaust, filters & boost restricter removal is the limit of the modifications) and after making some very mild (suggested) adjustments and restarting the engine a VERY loud top end "clatter" appeared.

The settings he was aiming for was :

INLET : 2 deg advanced

EXHAUST : 4 deg retarded

BUT he went the wrong way on both cams and ended up with

INLET : 2 deg retarded

EXHAUST : 4 deg advanced

Once the engine was restarted the idle was very rough, the aforementioned noise appeared and the was significantly less vacuum present on the boost gauge.

This is where my involvement began

Pulled the covers off again and I pointed out the cams were set in the wrong positions. We reset them to where they should have gone in the first place :

INLET : 2 deg advanced

EXHAUST : 4 deg retarded

Idle still poor, noise unchanged and vacuum the same.

We then reverted the cams back to standard position (0 deg IN, 0 deg EX) and while the idle improved it's still rough the vacuum and noise stayed the same.

Each time the ignition timing was reset appropriately.

Given the lower level of vacuum we suspected 1 or more dropped inlet valves so checked each cylinder by removing the injector plugs one by one and found that the engine revs dropped when every one of the plugs was removed and picked up again when each plug was replaced, so that would APPEAR to rule out inlet valves.

The rocker cover will come off tomorrow for a better look but until then does anyone have any other suggestions to mull over? Exhaust valves?? Camshaft??? Other????

Also is the RB26 a "non-interferance" engine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5007-rb26-very-noisey-up-top/
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...
Emre Proficient

Emre

Posted
Posted

Yes, the RB 26 is a non-interference engine, in stock form.

Did you make sure to put the spacer washer between the engine and the crank angle sensor back on...? This is a common overlook if you want to expose your new cam gears and decide not to put the cover back on. If you slide the CAS without the spacer washer, it will chew the rear of the CAS out and make the noise you are describing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • carnoobb
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • GTSBoy
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
×
×
  • Create New...