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Quick note... I am from the US :P

RB20 in a s14 (I think I remember it all):

RB20DEt Stock motor, using r32 crossmember. In a 95 240sx SE (with VLSD)

- 3" Stainless Downpipe (straight off turbo), my friend owes me the rest of the full 3".

- 3" Intake Pipe, on stock MAF (for now)

- Front mount intercooler (I think its 24x9x3) with full custom 2.5" intercooler piping, using Tial BOV (atomsphere dumped)

- Custom adapter box with Tial external wastegate 7psi spring. (again atmosphere dumped).

- Garret/Precision GT3255 (I believe it's a GT32 Comp Wheel in a T04E compressor cover, non-ballbearing center section, and a T31 stage 3 wheel in a .63 A/R t3 turbine housing)

- Walbro 255hp

- ACT NX6-HDSS Clutch

- PLX M-300 Wideband.

- Boost guage and tach

Coming soon: 550s, EGT, And my own custom GM 3" MAF (blow-through) Controller/Fuel Computer, and manual boost controller.

Well my friend FINALLY finished my car piping.. i.e. downpipe, adapter box, and intercooler piping. And I got to drive my car home last night, without a hood, open downpipe (still owes me cat-back), a little leaky, etc, etc... its rough.

Anyways here are my questions.

First and foremost... The car just simply doesnt feel that fast to me... Honestly only a *little* quicker than the KA. I was expecting to at least be able to light the tires up when I got into boost in first.... definately not the case.

Basically the car seems pretty decent with no boost or even 2psi or so. However once I get on it and crack the wastegate open at about 7psi it really doesn't seem to go any faster, than it did at 2psi. Ideas? I am thinking timing (which hasn't been set yet... but at the same time I just left it where it was from japan, which should be close). Also I have noticed that I literally PEG my wideband... which means I am less than 10:1!!! So I know there is definately some more power to be made there.

Revlimit... What is it on a RB20? I have an aftermarket sunpro tach and if I just freerev slowly the car just kinda breaks up around 6400 or so?! It doesnt really sound much like a limiter... What is the stock limiter like.. hard or soft?

Also I have the tach set for a 6cyl distributer less and I believe it to be 100% correct reading because it says I idle at 800RPM and get full boost maybe around 4200... which seems exactly correct.

Temp guage... Hmm, the sucker says HOT HOT HOT. Like usually just past the H, and will sometimes PEG. I know I forgot to switch to the KA temp sensor so that is most of the problem... Just want to make sure others have found that this is normal. I was very cautious, I would get out of the car and check the hose/radiator, I could hold the upper hose and the radiator was just a little too hot for me to hold but not by much... ... and no boiling coolant or anything. For those of u wondering, its on a stock radiator with 2 electric 12" pushers.

Other small issues:

- The car likes to die when coming to a stop, mostly once its warmed up.

- Oil leak from the feed line to the turbo.. I should be able to sort that out.

- Open downpipe is LOUD!!

- Havent tryed to fit the hood yet... too scared.

Any responses on the questions would be great... and I will have some pics soon enough.

Murray

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For now I am running everything stock, although I just have to get some time/money together to make my GM 3" MAF controller / fuel computer. I will be running a GM 3" AFM in blow through just past the BOV. The controller for this MAF also will allow for a 3d fuel map, which works like the safc/emanage by modifying the AFM signal to the ECU.

As a small update I sort of "set" the timing (couldnt find the exact way to do it) and it helped a TON. the car is a lot better now and can rev to around 8000. I will keep you all posted.

Murray

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