Jump to content
SAU Community

  

34 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

the DR30 was built as a race car base, same as the GTHO phase III was for ford.

The DR30 is an extended version of the 1600 chassis, so yes you might very well be right in that fact...

Doctor 30 if ur car is squriming and stuff be4 it brakes traction must be really soft!! Mine never gave me any warning at all (hence the crash) when it was gonna break loose!!

At one stage the DR30 was the quickest produtcion car so it must be classed as some kinda of muscle car, or is it just a performance car based on a family chasis car (ie WRX)??

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'll go with performance car based on family car chassis.The M/H/D R30 Sedan would be the most common platform I guess,so the FJ20 powered cars are the same chassis,but with sports orrentation. :D

Does that even make sense? ehh,bugger this,I've already voted anyway! :)

boof- WRX chassis was built to give it an advantage in the WRC over the production based cars (it worked last year). WRX hatch maybe designed as a family car, the sedan was built so that it could be homologated into a better rally car than its rivals. The STI (new one) even has a few trick items so that it can beat the evos on the track.

I think that is basically what the story was with the DR30, nissan wanted a car to go racing with and this was the best base tool to do it.

My car isn't soft but I can feel the tyres at the point they are going to give way, so the squirming is not in the suspension, it is in the tyres. Both my R30's have been great at doing controlled power slides. Current on is really low though, has 2" of travel in the suspension.

I agree that i think its more of a grand tourer, its to big to be a sports car (to me a sports car is something thats light and chuckable)

Like???

I had a supra..in comparison the skyline is a go-kart! The supra is a "true" gt, and it weighed about 1600kg.

I'd say a 180sx is a sports car, and its only 100-ish kg lighter, and the power delivery is a lot less savage.

Maybe its Muscle Grand Sports Tourer?

At one stage the DR30 was the quickest produtcion car so it must be classed as some kinda of muscle car, or is it just a performance car based on a family chasis car (ie WRX)??

the DR30 had more power and slightly less handling abilty than the top model porsche at the time. the family versions were the MR 4doors hence all the mod cons for the 1982 model, the HR and DR were always performance based cars from the lighter body to the adj front susp control, then with the dr and the FJ20det engine (either F1 engine at the time or soon to be F1 engine) the people at nissan must of had something in mind for the DR...sports car, GT car or just muscle car with out set guidelines for each name its always going to be one name for one and another name for another! :rofl:

Its not a v8, muscle cars are all v8's, it fits the other criteria of sports car, those being light (ralatively, especial compared to gt's), not particularely forgiving and relatively small. MG's were called sports cars and they have the worst brakes of anything in existance don't they? I'm just assuming that bit,  'cause they're british. :rofl:

and besides all that, what was the braking and tires of the day in 1982??

Six Pack Chargers? Cortina GTs? etc. There have been several muscle cars that are not 8 cylinder. Plus the A9X's produced for Le Man, were old school twin turboed! You can't tell me an A9X Torana is not a muscle car!

Also, Muscle cars are called such because of their muscle. They had/have large torque becuase of large displacement. Any one know that Chev made a factory 502 for the 67-69 Camaro. That is over 8 Litres!

My wife and sister both reckon its a muscle car...just to chuck a spanner in the works and screw up all my theories.

and yeah there are many "muscle" cars that aren't v8's (that'll learn me for being funny), I just didn't think about them at the time...I tend to associate muscle cars with gt ho falcons, and forget about the rest cause I'm busy drooling...

hm i dunno how i define muscle car but i dont think the DR would fit that bill for me, although, as far as jap cars go, it could sorta be up there coz arent other muscle cars also based on boring chassis and share bits with the boring versions? although id probably call the DR a sports car (hence my vote) since its effectively an up-specced sporty version of the normal skylines really. plus its a bit less soft edged to be a muscle car anyway with electrics

weight isnt as much as 'real' GT cars .. they only wiegh about 100kg more than s13s which are known to be pretty light and throwable...theyre a cheapo sports car i say but still sports car.

plus DR30's dont have GT badges they have RS badges! GT is grand tourer, dunno what RS stands for but ill assume some race sports or something along those lines ... nissan didnt designate it as a GT so its not one of them i wouldnt say !

Here we go again................

Did the L20ET have a twin cam head or not?  I didn't think so but that may change my opinion if they did.

Nope no twin cam head on the L20ET....

Nope no twin cam head on the L20ET....

nissan did make an inline DOHC 6 cyl engine about the same time they released the HR30 81/82 , looked like an extended fj20, i'll try to find out some info on it!

there was also an extremely rare twin cam head for the L20 4 cyl engine...i cant remember if it was HKS or nismo that made it though

And SVO (ford motorsport division) make a stroker kit for the 460 cube big block V8.....as if 460 wasnt big enuff....it takes it out to 600 cubes!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The jack pad placement always had me scratching my head. I only have a small section to work with on both the E90 and E70 (and insert new project car here ) and I could see lining it up to be a bit of a bugger. For me, the E90 is just too low and needs small ramps and then the front centre jack point is a bit tricky to line up (it's half way down the subframe and about the size of a tennis ball, its really hard to see unless your head is on the ground), so I definitely like the idea of not having to do a multi-stage jack and just sliding these bad boys in under the sides. There's only one small point at each corner, so I can't jack AND add a stand on the same corner. Or, maybe I can and I'm too nervous to try. 😟
    • Is this not the biggest deal of all? I was hoping the whole "will slide under cars with skirts etc and lift evenly quickly with minimal fuss" was the entire point of such a device? 
    • Here's Neil's car up on mine recently
    • Yeah I've got one of these, Quick Jack not Quick Lift, but your link looks like a good copy For me, it's better than no hoist, but it is definitely not as good as a hoist  It lifts the car about 60cm which is a nice working height compared to regular stands and it is only under the sills so it doesn't get in the way like regular chassis stands do.  No need to use regular stands, it has a safety lock on it. On the down side it is really heavy/unwieldy to drag into place, and you have to place it after the car is there (no option to drive the car to where the frames are. You need to try and line it up with the proper sill points which is hard as it swings up in an arc and there is surprisingly little adjustment in the distance between the rubber pads for different car lengths. Not a big deal, but in practice a jack + stands is probably quicker. Also there are hydraulic lines to each side and you need either a 240v or 12v source to power it depending on which option you have, I use 12v as I always seem to have a battery around.
    • Finally addressing my catch can and oil setup Plan is to do as much as practical without having to remove the motor or pull it apart. (no back of head to sump drain/breather or oil restrictors) First step is a set of full length baffle plates from Hypertune and a Tomei cam cap stud kit. I could probably have laser cut and bent up my own ones but this took any guess work out
×
×
  • Create New...