Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok its been inevitable for the last 8 months, I need a new block!

I am looking at 1 thats located in melbourne just gotta get it crack tested etc

I have access to Nissan Genuine Parts at good prices (friend works there). I also have access to a good engine builder, who is also a family friend so it can be done at good price.

my thoughts are if the block is in good condition give it a light hone and use my current pistons with a new set of rings, rebuild it using std genuine nissan bearings, gaskets etc. not touching the head.

my other idea was if it needs to be bored rebuild it using something like forged pistons, but i am not too keen on the cold startup slap of this type, so maybe something like ACL race pistons or those hyperautetic (spelling?) pistons. O-ringing the head and buying a phat turbo.

Power output i was originally aiming for was 200rwkw and i believe this can be achieved with the std turbo and injectors? but will go for more power once i understand what my limits are.

I have a Microtech MT/LT8 and a GReddy Profec B EBC, current power output is ~174rwkw at 12psi, will be upgrading to a FMIC and Dump/Front pipe before car goes back on the road also.

have about $2/4K to play with

cheers Tim,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50231-rebuild-time-suggestions/
Share on other sites

forged pistons, but i am not too keen on the cold startup slap of this type

I have 3 cars with forged pistons and none of them "slap", it is simply a matter of setting the clearances to suite. I suggest a long talk with "the family friend" should kill off that myth. :)

Do i need Forgies for an engine thats only gonna see round 15psi and probably 300/350rwhp if im lucky?

Spoke to some guys that get their engines built at the particular place, said he swears by ACL Race Series pistons.

On another note one of these guys took me for a spin in his VH Commodore equipt with RB20DET, HKS T300, External Gate, FMIC, EMS and Launch Control, was bloody quick!

Do i need Forgies for an engine thats only gonna see round 15psi and probably 300/350rwhp if im lucky?

Its not really a yes or no answer but it comes down to wheather you want a reliable engine or not, an engine thats going to last 5 years or 1 year. I carnt really predict the life of an engine but its upto you if you want forged pistons or not.

In my opinion; If your going to do it once do it properly, saves you pulling out the engine later on in the future.

With forged pistons you could have a more responsive motor as you could step down a size in a turbo and run more boost (20-24psi) to make the same power as the larger turbo would on say 16-17psi. + you could afford to have a tune that is slightly more aggressive.

You always get used to the power and want to pump just that little more boost in so for an extra $1300 the forgy's are well worth while.

Don't worry about slap etc.. That is a thing of the past. Unless the builder is useless.

hmm ok, ill look into it... the guy building it builds race engines.

what turbo should i look at then? i can get a brand new GT3040 for ~$2000 + external gate, but i feel this may be a bit too big for my requirements?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is rebuilding it even a thing? Where would the shop find parts for it? I looked at some off these local online stores for my r34 and suprisingly they had brand new aftetmarket ones for $600-800 I think. I guess r32 might be a bit tougher.
    • I remember the days when E85 was priced in according to the $ per km outcome. Sure E85 was about 35% cheaper, but you also lost about 35% range... now it's fked..
    • They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to move wrt the other.
    • I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
×
×
  • Create New...