Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah.. i got an auto.. autos seem to be better condition overall.. most of the "good" manuals seem to have already gone. will cost under $10k onroad with some semi slicks for the rears :P means i can spend $10k on the engine.. :evil: Manual rb20 boxes are cheap too if you want to go that route too later on.

apparently there have been big storms & earthquakes in Japan this week.. hope my car is ok sitting wherever its sitting .. probably outside ;)

  • Replies 250
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

apparently there have been big storms & earthquakes in Japan this week.. hope my car is ok sitting wherever its sitting .. probably outside :P

Definately outside -- space is expensive enough in Japan :) Same thought had crossed my mind ;)

Out of interest, are most people getting their cars degassed prior to shipping or taking advantage of the new exemption scheme?

LW.

lwells: I am importing under SEVS and my RAWS has a license to import cars with air-conditioning so I do not need to do either.

This is a better avenue to take if you can do it because it costs you less time and effort. If you're using a customs agent, that time and effort equals money and if you're using the "exemption" CGL charge $100 extra.

Of course this is probably cheaper than de-gassing and regassing so I would do that if i had to.

As I understand that last bit is incorrect.  A car that arrives without import approval has to be either destroyed or re-exported.  Of course it would have to go back to Japan, I guess NZ or similar would be fine.

Nah. The car can be stored at the wharf until such time as the import approval arrives.

From memory storage at the wharf is something around $50 a day.

Regarding your a/c question, I'll be going the exemption route.

LW: two questions for you mate. Who are you going to ship with, and to which port? Also, are you using a customs agent? if so, which one?

Richard

LW: two questions for you mate. Who are you going to ship with, and to which port? Also, are you using a customs agent? if so, which one?

At this stage, I am not sure exactly which company the car is booked to ship with: I imagine its whoever Prestige normally uses (RoRo?). The car will be shipping to Sydney (Glebe Island I imagine). Using Control Global Logistics after recommendations from other SAU'ers.

Lucien.

Ok, if it's shipping direct to Sydney it won't be with Kiwi. Maybe K-line? RoRo just means Roll on - Roll Off. Basically the car is just driven onto the ship and parked then driven off when it gets here. As opposed to shipping in a container. RoRo is obviously cheaper but not as safe. What have you done about insurance? If any. Would also love to hear what the shipping costs in the end.

Cheers,

Richard

mmmgtir: Yeah, I know RoRo = Roll on Roll off, but I couldn't remember the name of the company/ship that other who have used Prestige and shipped to Sydney have had.

Re: insurance, do you mean on-the-road insurance, or shipping insurance? :)

I am keeping a running total of costs in my Overclockers Australia thread.

Lucien.

I mean shipping insurance. It's just that I have been told that outside of Kiwi (who only ship to Brisbane) there aren't really any viable insurance options with other carriers. I would love to know if you did take out insurance to ship to Sydney (with K-Line or whoever) how much it cost.

Richard

I mean shipping insurance. It's just that I have been told that outside of Kiwi (who only ship to Brisbane) there aren't really any viable insurance options with other carriers. I would love to know if you did take out insurance to ship to Sydney (with K-Line or whoever) how much it cost.

Richard

I'll find out for you :)

Lucien.

snt shipping insurance from japan $150? anyways, the missis got me a overnight courier postage bag for free, so ill either fax or send.

anyways, check out the below map of japan. i feel real sorry for the people affected by the earth quake/typhoon/volcano in japan.

steve

Prestige do not have a regular shipping line, they just deal with buyers in Japan and the buyer deals with the shipping line. The shipping line they use is - whoever they can get. Unless you specifically want Kiwi line or someone else.

My car is shipping on NYK Line - i think.

Which port are you shipping to with NYK? Also, what type of insurance have you taken out with them? Interior fitments? general average? and how much was it from JP to your chosen Aus port?

Thanks mate,

Richard

mmmgtir: hey dude. sad to see the GTI-R go. Im pretty sure I met you at the Mongolian BBQ place in Chatswood one SAU meet.

About the shipping, insurance was a bit difficult to source for the entire vehicle. The only insurance I could find was general average insurance. I believe if you want insurance you go with Kiwi line otherwise it costs a lot.

The car ships directly to Sydney. The cost is around $750USD. I will have more details once I get the B/L. At this time all I know is that the car has been/is being loaded onto a boat today or tommorrow.

mmmgtir: hey dude. sad to see the GTI-R go. Im pretty sure I met you at the Mongolian BBQ place in Chatswood one SAU meet.

About the shipping, insurance was a bit difficult to source for the entire vehicle. The only insurance I could find was general average insurance. I believe if you want insurance you go with Kiwi line otherwise it costs a lot.

The car ships directly to Sydney. The cost is around $750USD. I will have more details once I get the B/L. At this time all I know is that the car has been/is being loaded onto a boat today or tommorrow.

Yep. That was me at the mong BBQ. Yeah, I'm starting to miss the little thing already (not even sold yet). It's so quick, and 'chuckable' - lots of fun. But BNR32 has always been the car for me :)

on the shipping that's pretty much the same things I've been hearing. No viable insurance options with the other lines that ship to Sydney. That price seems pretty fair, works out about the same as Kiwi to brisbane (road freight to syd). I'm in two minds as on the one hand I'd love to have the car land in sydney, so I'm available to go down there and kick heads if need be, but on the other hand not looking forward to having to replace all the interior fitments after they are pinched. Anyway, would love to hear how you go.

BTW, awesome car mate :D Can't wait to lay eyes on that puppy!

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...