Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah.. i got an auto.. autos seem to be better condition overall.. most of the "good" manuals seem to have already gone. will cost under $10k onroad with some semi slicks for the rears :P means i can spend $10k on the engine.. :evil: Manual rb20 boxes are cheap too if you want to go that route too later on.

apparently there have been big storms & earthquakes in Japan this week.. hope my car is ok sitting wherever its sitting .. probably outside ;)

  • Replies 250
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

apparently there have been big storms & earthquakes in Japan this week.. hope my car is ok sitting wherever its sitting .. probably outside :P

Definately outside -- space is expensive enough in Japan :) Same thought had crossed my mind ;)

Out of interest, are most people getting their cars degassed prior to shipping or taking advantage of the new exemption scheme?

LW.

lwells: I am importing under SEVS and my RAWS has a license to import cars with air-conditioning so I do not need to do either.

This is a better avenue to take if you can do it because it costs you less time and effort. If you're using a customs agent, that time and effort equals money and if you're using the "exemption" CGL charge $100 extra.

Of course this is probably cheaper than de-gassing and regassing so I would do that if i had to.

As I understand that last bit is incorrect.  A car that arrives without import approval has to be either destroyed or re-exported.  Of course it would have to go back to Japan, I guess NZ or similar would be fine.

Nah. The car can be stored at the wharf until such time as the import approval arrives.

From memory storage at the wharf is something around $50 a day.

Regarding your a/c question, I'll be going the exemption route.

LW: two questions for you mate. Who are you going to ship with, and to which port? Also, are you using a customs agent? if so, which one?

Richard

LW: two questions for you mate. Who are you going to ship with, and to which port? Also, are you using a customs agent? if so, which one?

At this stage, I am not sure exactly which company the car is booked to ship with: I imagine its whoever Prestige normally uses (RoRo?). The car will be shipping to Sydney (Glebe Island I imagine). Using Control Global Logistics after recommendations from other SAU'ers.

Lucien.

Ok, if it's shipping direct to Sydney it won't be with Kiwi. Maybe K-line? RoRo just means Roll on - Roll Off. Basically the car is just driven onto the ship and parked then driven off when it gets here. As opposed to shipping in a container. RoRo is obviously cheaper but not as safe. What have you done about insurance? If any. Would also love to hear what the shipping costs in the end.

Cheers,

Richard

mmmgtir: Yeah, I know RoRo = Roll on Roll off, but I couldn't remember the name of the company/ship that other who have used Prestige and shipped to Sydney have had.

Re: insurance, do you mean on-the-road insurance, or shipping insurance? :)

I am keeping a running total of costs in my Overclockers Australia thread.

Lucien.

I mean shipping insurance. It's just that I have been told that outside of Kiwi (who only ship to Brisbane) there aren't really any viable insurance options with other carriers. I would love to know if you did take out insurance to ship to Sydney (with K-Line or whoever) how much it cost.

Richard

I mean shipping insurance. It's just that I have been told that outside of Kiwi (who only ship to Brisbane) there aren't really any viable insurance options with other carriers. I would love to know if you did take out insurance to ship to Sydney (with K-Line or whoever) how much it cost.

Richard

I'll find out for you :)

Lucien.

snt shipping insurance from japan $150? anyways, the missis got me a overnight courier postage bag for free, so ill either fax or send.

anyways, check out the below map of japan. i feel real sorry for the people affected by the earth quake/typhoon/volcano in japan.

steve

Prestige do not have a regular shipping line, they just deal with buyers in Japan and the buyer deals with the shipping line. The shipping line they use is - whoever they can get. Unless you specifically want Kiwi line or someone else.

My car is shipping on NYK Line - i think.

Which port are you shipping to with NYK? Also, what type of insurance have you taken out with them? Interior fitments? general average? and how much was it from JP to your chosen Aus port?

Thanks mate,

Richard

mmmgtir: hey dude. sad to see the GTI-R go. Im pretty sure I met you at the Mongolian BBQ place in Chatswood one SAU meet.

About the shipping, insurance was a bit difficult to source for the entire vehicle. The only insurance I could find was general average insurance. I believe if you want insurance you go with Kiwi line otherwise it costs a lot.

The car ships directly to Sydney. The cost is around $750USD. I will have more details once I get the B/L. At this time all I know is that the car has been/is being loaded onto a boat today or tommorrow.

mmmgtir: hey dude. sad to see the GTI-R go. Im pretty sure I met you at the Mongolian BBQ place in Chatswood one SAU meet.

About the shipping, insurance was a bit difficult to source for the entire vehicle. The only insurance I could find was general average insurance. I believe if you want insurance you go with Kiwi line otherwise it costs a lot.

The car ships directly to Sydney. The cost is around $750USD. I will have more details once I get the B/L. At this time all I know is that the car has been/is being loaded onto a boat today or tommorrow.

Yep. That was me at the mong BBQ. Yeah, I'm starting to miss the little thing already (not even sold yet). It's so quick, and 'chuckable' - lots of fun. But BNR32 has always been the car for me :)

on the shipping that's pretty much the same things I've been hearing. No viable insurance options with the other lines that ship to Sydney. That price seems pretty fair, works out about the same as Kiwi to brisbane (road freight to syd). I'm in two minds as on the one hand I'd love to have the car land in sydney, so I'm available to go down there and kick heads if need be, but on the other hand not looking forward to having to replace all the interior fitments after they are pinched. Anyway, would love to hear how you go.

BTW, awesome car mate :D Can't wait to lay eyes on that puppy!

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...