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I have been for some rides with some pretty good drifters.

Popping clutches, smashing gears, etc, etc... just goes against my mechanical sympathy, I don't think I could get myself to do it.

But learning to slide is an important part of grip driving. The main reason I would get into it is that it is a competition where there is still a hope of being competitive in a national category without a zillion dollars. Though that honeymoon period is quickly coming to an end.

this is just like sump baffel syndrome SBS for the track racers

im going to call it DPS= drift ***** syndrome

its when you make excuses for not going drifting... you dont have to have a big radiator/ no oil cooler/ no balls

you dont need all of those things generally when your out there you do half a lap hard the cool down

only people who cant drive bang it of the limiter (and or people who hate their engine) i normally sit anywhere between 4-7k(rb26)

and i think for a begineer yo dont need anything remotely hard core to have fun

if you take it easy on your car it will last for ages drifting you willjust wear out tyres if you try and be a ful sik drifter bouncing of curves and hammering your car then you will break something

take it easy until you lern it well then decide if you want to go further then worry about all that other shit

this is just like sump baffel syndrome SBS for the track racers

im going to call it DPS= drift ***** syndrome

its when you make excuses for not going drifting... you dont have to have a big radiator/ no oil cooler/ no balls

you dont need all of those things generally when your out there you do half a lap hard the cool down

only people who cant drive bang it of the limiter (and or people who hate their engine) i normally sit anywhere between 4-7k(rb26)

and i think for a begineer yo dont need anything remotely hard core to have fun

if you take it easy on your car it will last for ages drifting you willjust wear out tyres if you try and be a ful sik drifter bouncing of curves and hammering your car then you will break something

take it easy until you lern it well then decide if you want to go further then worry about all that other shit

I tend to agree the tool behind the wheel is the biggest factor. My thinking is the best car to drift would be a stocka, perhaps with just some basic springs etc.

I think my car is too modified in that the engine is making 220% the power a std RB20 makes, and with shitty 205/16s and the need to keep the engine over 5,000rpm so that it stays on boost means that i hit the limiter too often:( Driver, probably, but the limiter was mostly around the 7,000rpm mark and to stop the cr bogging down with traction in 3rd i had to be pretty gung-ho with the throttle:(

2nd gear was much easier, but not as much fun:)

Combined with my lack of drifting/driving ability it still is a recipe for great fun, but in the back of my mind im concerned about gearbox, engine, chips, buckled rims, bodywork:(

I have learnt so much with my current car the past 5 years, i reckon my next car will be the perfect car to cop abuse at the track, drifting etc etc.

Basically std car with just a few light susp and brake mods, and breathing mods, then just drive the wheels off the thing, thrashing and not braking them is so much more fun then spending money on mods only to end up with that mod highlighting the cars other shortcomings:(

  • 2 weeks later...

OIL cOOLER!!!UBER IMPORTANT bouncing a car on rev limiter heats it up substtantially put on the heater full blasy and constantly check oil and water levels to make sure all topped up no leeks........um they are important

JUST use stockies on the backes especially whn your learning as you'll have no money to pay for the extra control low pro's give you unless your rich thne spend away......weld your diff if you like but its illegal and not as good as a proper drift item ie kaaz nismo list goes on.....more spare tyres.....basic tools....spare oil and water......more oil...hose clamps for intercoolers if applicable.....could blow a hose.....and overall when drifitng keep an eye on your guages especially pressure in oil and temp guages.....if either if looks like goin skyward STOP i think thats enough for now.....oh i dunno if you have them already but suspension really helps like tein hieght adjustable coilovers are uber nice...

have fun

  • 2 weeks later...

Beh, SR20 in an R32 is wrong:)

And right now the turbo is perfect for what i do with the car, drift is well behind circuit work, day-day street and occassional drag...with very rare drift.

Testimony to how had drift was on my particular car, well the boot lid doesnt close properly anymore. It now sits further to one side...chassis flex.?!?!?! Yeh real easy on cars:(, i wont be going back for a while:)

  • 2 weeks later...

On a road RB powered car i think its going to cost a lot of money for little reward. I suppose for the grifting the main thing is that your cooling systems are little more protected in the event of a woopsie. From a purely cooling aspect, there is very little difference. Its all about airflow and surface area, and with a v-mount option you risk getting the airflow thing wrong.

Its my understanding that Race cars go with this sort of setup for any number of reasons, drag, downforce, centre of gravity etc etc. If your goood with sheetmetal so it becomes a DIY job, then give it a go i suppose:)

So if you manage to stuff up the airflow paths can this actually work massively against your car and will cost you potentially a couple thousand dollars for something that works worse than what you had before?

But if you do get the airflow paths right there’s not that much increase, what about sloping the radiator to increase the size of radiator you can have without it sticking out the bottom or something. On my dads 97 Chevrolet camaro the radiator is tilted backwards so i assume this is because of the superior cooling you get from it?

troy... buy a rust bucket n drift it...

my costs...

ae86 with 4ac and disc brakes all around... $650

ca18det... $1600

hilux rear axle n diff... $150

mini spooler... $450

roll cage $500

fabrication/fitting... free (favours from workshops etc)

end result... cheap POS that i'll have no regrets about putting into a wall, getting sideways or destroying any part of :(

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