Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just wondering if anyone has a hks sequential bov?

mine really flutters, alot and i pulled it apart. i think the spring is facing the wrong way. my standard bov pushes open (toward the exit) so the air can escape. the hks' spring pushes away from the exit and i dont see how it works like this.

is this right?

thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50349-hks-sequential-bov/
Share on other sites

Yeh thats how they work the valve goes in and not out.

Tighten it up by un-tightening the black screw head closes to the blow off valve as a lock then using a spanner or socket tighten the one furthest away, make sure it goes in and not out. the re tighten the other one back up to lock it.

This will make it hard to open the valve under boost pressure and it will make a psshhtt in stead of flutter.

i believe this topic has been covered before so feel free to search...

besides from memory doesnt the hks valve you are referring to have two valve thingis (a smaller one and a larger one that only opens under heavy boost). I also read somwhere that these do flutter under light load so it is normal.

sorry sky, i took a damn good look but mainly found people trying to sell them.

as far as i can tell there is only 1 outlet.

a spring up the top covered by a rubber seal, then at the side the inlet for the gas from the piping, then down below 1 piston covering the outlet (spring moves inwards)

ok i just tightened the top screw as much as possible and took it for a drive, the bov seems to be working much better than before (more of a refined flutter). even at high rpm it still flutters. sounds great but is this bad for the turbo? is a fluttering turbo bad like the flutter from the air hitting the turbo and comming out of the pod?

The air shouldnt be going back through the turbo if you have a bov, Inless you have the bov too tight or its blocked some how ? the the hole purpose of a bov is to stop the air going back through the turbo, which can cause lag between gear shifts.

So i'm not to sure whats happening here. Is the BOV making a high pitch noise after letting the throttle off at high rpm ?

HKS bov is a pull type not a push type. This way it can handle more boost and doesnt leek under highpressure vacumm like other BOV's

think i got that the right way around but ya know what i mean :cheers:

I have a Monza SSQ, (i know its cheap, but dont laugh, it came with my car :rant: ) anyhow... it has a very similar design... and i was having a look at it last night...

and when i cover the outlet of the bov with the palm of my hand it tries to suck my hand in, like i can feel it suck my hand...

Is this bad. is my bov leaking? i dont really see how it can affect much as i guess it would be different if it were to be blowing while i rev it... as then it would be leaking boost. but if its sucking. is that bad?

i have nfi :)

Cheers guys.

and when i cover the outlet of the bov with the palm of my hand it tries to suck my hand in, like i can feel it suck my hand...

Is this bad. is my bov leaking? i dont really see how it can affect much as i guess it would be different if it were to be blowing while i rev it... as then it would be leaking boost. but if its sucking. is that bad?

All this talk of sucking and blowing!

Gotta Go!

?????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is rebuilding it even a thing? Where would the shop find parts for it? I looked at some off these local online stores for my r34 and suprisingly they had brand new aftetmarket ones for $600-800 I think. I guess r32 might be a bit tougher.
    • I remember the days when E85 was priced in according to the $ per km outcome. Sure E85 was about 35% cheaper, but you also lost about 35% range... now it's fked..
    • They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to move wrt the other.
    • I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
×
×
  • Create New...