Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking into getting a front mount I/C for my r33 m spec and I want to know do I have to cut any of my front bar to make one fit,

Also suggestions on what type to get and if front the front bar needs to be cut for the type.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

i had mine just trimmed at the back side to give enough clearance for the fmic. from a far that'll make my car look 100% stock. air flow wise won't be a majro issue for a low boost application.

I like the look of the front bar as it is and yeah I am wanting to keep it looking as stock as posiable,

not going to be running huge boost so I dont need to get heeps of air flow,

so what is going to be the better brand to go with?

and around what size?

as was said the back side of the bar needs to be trimmed a little for the thing to fit, but the front should be fine. it should show you what needs to be done in the instruction booklet for and r33 i/c kit such as taking off the stock cooler and trimming what needs to be trimmed and so on and so forth. i have a greedy v-spl and that kit is only for midly modded cars so it (or a similar kit) would be ideal for you i suppose. dimensions are 600x276x76

Also, with a gtr style front bar such as the ones from UAS, it wouldnt need to be trimmed on the backside for the above cooler to fit would it?? i thought the std gtr coolers were about the same size so it should be ok right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...