Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm lookin for some front mount piping to DIY, I wanna do the pipes the right way around (ie, no cold air-over-the-hot-engine) deal, noone seems interested in doing a job like this for a decent non-exorbitant price...

Gonna be needing a few bends/silicon hose/silicon reducers, piping.....

Where can I get some of this stuff from ?

Is the standard piping 2.5" ?

Cheers guys,

-Kym.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50466-looking-for-ic-piping/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got my intercooler + piping for $1100ish landed which i thought was a pretty good deal. Then fitted it myself. Pipes do go over the top of the engine tho, where else are you gunna put em through?

$350 - $400 sounds awfully cheap, let us know how you go tho

Kim I did my piping myself ... wasn't too hard

I have a Hybrid 600x300 type thing. I used the standard piping down past the pod filter, and then the far side of the cooler (the cold side) turned back around behind the cooler to join up with the standard piping.

It worked well I think ... no extra lag noticed and was good enough to make nearly 250rwhp at SST on standard turbo.

I'm changing it soon though as I have a new turbo going on .. but for stock turbo the setup seemed to work well :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...

slightly off topic but still on intercooler piping. who can make up custom cooler piping? ie which workshop? Not for my car, I got FMIC already :rofl: but for my bro's GT4 Celica. Looking mild steel but stainless would also be considered. I heard Per4manz can do cool piping? anywhere else?

Update: Picked up my SS Mandrel Bends and bits of pipe from Allbend Engineering in Ossie Park, cost me $104 all up, now I just gotta pick up some silicon piping reducers, and some hose clamps and put it all together...

I've decided to go with the 180degree bend on one side of the cooler to retain the stock return/output pipes. I'm going to do a comparison between the "over-the-engine" and using stock pipes myself as noone has any hard facts.....

hey strick,

glad to hear buddy. i went to allbends on friday, and he said that they only had 2 1/2inch pipe, so using a hybrid 3inch cooler would require reducers.

i would love to know how you go with the install, maybe some pics :D if you want a hand to help, let me know i would love to as i want to do the same for myself.

maybe we can get cheaper reducers or clamps if we buy bulk. let me know :(

God Bless,

Nate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...