So I'm going to import an R32 GTR...

[The Jake]

I'll have about 30gs.

What should I look out for and what should I be looked at replacing?

- J.

[Birnie]

I thought you;d be able to get em alot cheeper than that? (the 30k)

There's one on ebay which looks alright for 22k and apparenlty has nismo turbos.

I'd be checking that out

[benm]

If you have $30k why bother importing? You would have plenty to choose from (including newer models than the 89 imports) if you have $30k to play with. Imagine actually seeing, touching and driving your GTR before you hand over the cash for it ... amazing i'd say.

[sewid]

Yeah theres a few for sale on here for less than 30k, already complied.

[RTFGTR]

Forget getting it in OZ. Why pay all that money for someones overheads and other shit they have paid for to get it to OZ + the profit the shifty bastard wants to make on a crappy example. With your $30K (HEAPS!!!) for a R32 GTR you would pick a primo GTR that you would probably not find in the local market (with all the aftermarket parts already installed etc...) Get an agent and don't buy from auction. You would have approx. $2230000YEN to play with = VERY VERY VERY nice GTR

Look for Service History Paperwork, most great examples have been built up and serviced at one garage (don't trust ANYONE that says they can provide it later because once you pay do you think they give a shit.)

Be cautious about roll cages. (personal opinion)

General wear and tear of interior / pannels (drifting mishaps)

I'm no expert, and if I had my time again I would do alot of things different.

I got mine for $1130000YEN with the following:

T78

Trust FMIC

Tien Suspension

N1 Exhaust

All Gauges (x4)

Aftermarket ECU

Greddy Oil Cooler

Some Nice Rims

Car has had a respray... don't really care about that

General Condition is very good.

Will need to get engine checked out, thats my only concern so far but will hopefully not cost an arm and a leg to get it running like new if not already.

Take your time and get a FIRST CLASS example from Japan. The wait can be BAD also.

[Andor]

I agree with BlackRobin importing is definately the way to go. Prestige Motorsport (import agents) are highly regarded. However under new law any modifications to a car must be removed and the car returned to stock before compliancing. Personally I prefer to make modifications myself so it suits me fine. Goodluck.

[The Jake]

I plan on importing one and then building it up locally. I got all the time in the world for now since I get by on PT quite nicely for now.

If I see a real nice one in Japan I could get it but it makes little point if all the mods have to be ripped out and put back in later.

- J.

[lwells]

If you want to build it up here, which is what I want to do, so you know exactly what is done to, expect to pay a premium: grade 4 (or equivalent) stock cars tend to cost more than mildly modded cars.

I know, because its what I did -- or more correctly, am in the process of doing. You can read about my experiences here (you will need to signup, but its very quick/easy).

Lucien.

[sewid]

lwells:

I noticed you are going with CGL as well for your customs agent. I am planning on using those guys but i think you have misunderstood their fees (judging by the OCAU post).

Their fee may be $150 but every time they do something for you (send a form, attend the docks, pick their nose) they charge you more.

The actual fees and charges are more likely to add up to $500 - $600 not including shipping or wharf fees.

Here is a list of their fees they sent me when i asked:

Professional Charges

Customs Clearance $150.00

Customs Entry $25.00

Delivery Order $50.00

Customs Attendance $45.00

Quarantine Attendance $45.00

Customs Examination $55.00

Quarantine Examination $55.00

Quarantine Re-Examination $88.00

Air Conditioning compliance $100.00

The you probably will have to pay for steam cleaning:

- $138 for exterior and $50 or so for interior if required

Not really a bargain.

I've spoken to Schenker as well but they have a flat fee of $2500 for the process excluding wharf fees, shipping, and steam cleaning. This includes de-containerizing though so would be reduced by $300 if your car arrives on a RoRo ship.

The point is moot however as even $2200 is way too much.

[Blitz]

Sewid: I used CGL as well when I imported my MR2.

The costs you outlined above look about right, either way the estimate given by Prestige was right on the nose after all the customs fees, steam cleaning etc.

CGL were very helpful and made light work of all the red tape when the car arrived.

[lwells]

sewid: I am aware that $150 doesn't cover them actually doing anything, its just their 'engagement fee' so to speak. Still, I think having them pushing all the paper saves enough of my time to make it worth while.

Edit: I assume you are referring to where I say:

Although I was initially interested in doing without a custom agent, having read other's experiences of attempting to do it themselves I think $150 (CGL's fee) is a small price to pay and will probably result in the car getting released sooner.

I think you misinterpreted (or I was not clear). I didn't mean that paying $150 makes all the other charges magically disappear

LW.

[Blitz]

Lucien, you must be getting pretty damn excited, didnt you buy your GTR around the same time I bought my MR2?

[The Jake]

Great review. Thank you very much. I like your line of reasoning there.

- J.

[lwells]

Lucien, you must be getting pretty damn excited, didnt you buy your GTR around the same time I bought my MR2?

In March mate, so after about 5 months of having to wait its nice to see things moving Exciting? Not really (maybe when it actually lands) as there is just too many hoops to jump through yet and I have had lot of frustrations lately (namely trying to get my TE37s delivered to the car for installation prior to shipping) which as sort of taken the pleasure out of things.

Still, progress is so much better than just waiting for the days to roll by due to stupid import laws

PS. Spoke to Nathan yesterday. Seems like a good bloke; will definately use them for compliance I think, so thanks for the recommendation.

Lucien.

[sewid]

lwells: I think the $150 actually goes to them for them organising a bunch of stuff which is fair enough. The other fees are charged to them by customs and they bill it back to you with their part of the fee on-top.

I HATE customs.

[The Jake]

What is the typical time required to import a car?

- J.

[Blitz]

The Jake, heres a rough break down of what I went through

Buying the car, organising transfer etc (2 days)

Waiting for buyers invoice (1 week approx)

Import approval (3 weeks approx)

Shipping (2 weeks approx)

Steam cleaning (1 day - you drop the car at hobbs brothers after leaving the dock)

Compliance work for rego (2 days)

/Edit: there was also some additional time in there waiting for an available vessel as I chose to wait until I had my import approval in hand before getting Geoff to put the car on a ship. This was also when the degassing rule came into effect so there was some clarification required by DEH and a small wait for a Denso service man to come to the docks in Japan and degass my air con.

[lwells]

Just two point to add to what Blitz has said

1) It depends which year and month the car you wish to import was made. The car has to be 15 years old, to the month. In my case, the car was made in September 1989, so I had to wait until Sept. 2004 before I could even lodge my application for import approval.

2) There is now an air-con exemption that you can apply for if the car is for private use, so you don't have to get it degassed in Japan.

LW.

[RTFGTR]

I plan on importing one and then building it up locally. I got all the time in the world for now since I get by on PT quite nicely for now.

If I see a real nice one in Japan I could get it but it makes little point if all the mods have to be ripped out and put back in later.

- J.

You are getting a R32 right? You will not need to rip off any mods if it falls under the 15 y rule unless you are planning on getting 91/92/93 model. Not sure if you have made that clear yet.

[The Jake]

I assume an '89 would be the best model given the amount of money I want to splash on fixing it up. Is there much difference between the later years (technically I mean and not in terms of wear and tear)? I think it's only with V-Spec its got the different breaking system.

- J.