Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've got tien HR's on my 32 they are pretty firm but still have a fair bit adjustment i'm just to lazy to change them. Soooo mouch better than stockers in the handling department (drifts much easier) no good for drags though, not enough grip,but easy enough to change back to stock for that.

Enjoy

hi guys,

I have the Tein's in and they are great, im still adjusting to how much bumpier the ride is, and how they came its actually allowed my car to sit a little higher which is always good for bumps and driveways :)

Although over some bumps I can hear a knocking sound coming from the back shocks, they all feel firm and in working order. Could it be because they havn't been used for a while?

Could there be anything wrong?

Thanks

Mark

hi guys,

I have the Tein's in and they are great, im still adjusting to how much bumpier the ride is, and how they came its actually allowed my car to sit a little higher which is always good for bumps and driveways :D

Although over some bumps I can hear a knocking sound coming from the back shocks, they all feel firm and in working order. Could it be because they havn't been used for a while?

Could there be anything wrong?

Thanks

Mark

Check the shock top nuts for tightness, I find heaps that are loose. :)

Thanks Roy and Sydney Kid for your input!!!

I believe that the knocking is coming from the back left.

I don't think its a buggerd shock as I have driven a 180 before with stuffed from coilovers and the front was wobbling big time.

My mate who knew how to install them checked the something on the top of the strut tower, Im guessing that would be the "shock top nuts". The knocking is not so loud and doesn't do it on all bumps although I am not sure how to recognise if a bush is worn.

Do you guy's think under these circumstances that the shock seems not to be the problem?

Thanks

Mark

No idea....the forum is good for how to do things, not so great for what is this noise.

I stumbled across a suspension place in Thomastown called Centreline when i first came down here based on the recommendation of my boss. I dont normally refer ppl to places but their pricing was good and service/knowledge was great. Speak to Chris and arrange to swing by with your car....

I doubt its the problem but one day driving down the freeway with two ppl in th3e back my rear right started to scrub. i thought it was unusual as my car isnt that low and i have had 4 ppl in the back of my car (lol...good memories) When i got to where i was headed i checked the rear susp and the uper control arm had failed and where the bush was the weld had started to shear. Can you say +3-4 degrees camber and strange toe?!?!?!

So doubt thats your prob , but an example it can be anything. Have your friend have a good good look around, are the shocks new/2nd hand? If its nothing obvious then try a place you know wont give you worst case news and pricing to fix ssimply because they dotn know.

thanks for the reply Roy they are second hand, my car isnt that low either.

I have sent an e-mail this morning to a place called Track Right located in Dandenong an I think i might try and run my car down there.

They are good, they helped me when I first bought my car with a negative camber issue on the front where the left side was 1.5 degrees more than the right due to a bent control arm.

i have Tein HA's. i have heard that the bush in the top plate can wear out and make a knocking noise.

Mine are bloody stiff. i can't go 140km/h on the roads up here, without getting sore kidneys or hitting my head on the roof or window.

Do you have helper springs? if so are they fully compressed?

i did adjust the rebound all the way soft on the front, it was like driving my old XF with stuffed shocks, damn scary.

i have Tein HA's. i have heard that the bush in the top plate can wear out and make a knocking noise.

Mine are bloody stiff. i can't go 140km/h on the roads up here, without getting sore kidneys or hitting my head on the roof or window.

Do you have helper springs? if so are they fully compressed?

i did adjust the rebound all the way soft on the front, it was like driving my old XF with stuffed shocks, damn scary.

Helper (tender) springs are mostly used to keep the main springs captive and give extra extension so the wheels stay on the ground. So they contribute nothing to ride comfort. My sugest ion would be to put the rear springs in the front and buy a pair of 200 lb rear springs. For around $150 delivered its a good value upgrade.

We buy our springs from Whiteline

www.whiteline.com.au

Hope that helps :D

Whiteline make the custome springs like sydney kid said and once you install them you dial inthe right dampner setting is its fantastic (sways bars help alot).

Also how much did u pick them up second hand? are they NR's, HA, etc.....??

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...