Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive got a second hand Power FC for the RB20DET.

This does not include the hand controller.

these are very hard to find! it took about six months to find the unit

$1600

Also have a second hand Z32 air flow meter.

Attached to it is a 4inch HKS pod by a HKS pod adapter.

SOLD

**SPECIAL DEAL**

Both of these for $21,500 and i'll throw in my car for free. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50521-power-fc-for-rb20-z32-afm-with-pod/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the sale price includes the h/c (assuming one can be sourced)

i knew i would get a few of these responses. this is an AP Engineering Power FC. The reason it is expensive is that Power FCs were never made for the RB20DET, so they had to be modified to suit.

.

1800, but if i dont get any interest then i may lower it. although i would do it for 1600 without the h/c

like i said these are VERY RARE. i waited about 6 months for the unit, and ive been waiting about a year for the h/c to be found.

.

We use the 415-X001 Commander with our R32 GSTS Power FC. That's the same modle of Commander as;

R32 GTR

R33 GTR

R33 GTST

S13

S14

S15

Toyota Supra (most models)

RX7

Honda Civic

Honda Integra

Mitsubishi Lancer EVo's (most models)

I think you could safely say it is the THE most popular Commander. I am sure if you really wanted one you could get it overnight air freight. :mad:

Just noticed that the adapater to the pod is actually an HKS item also.

it has the same taper as the bell mouth inside the pod. So its an even taper from 4inches down to 3inches.  

$350

So thats for the Z32 AFM and HKS pod?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
    • Very cool, see what I did there? 🥲 Wild WMI setup, first I've seen where it's on each cylinder runner, usually I see a single jet pre throttle.
×
×
  • Create New...