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haha stop picking on me troy! :cheers:

you bag me out what ever i want, when i first suggested the GTRS you were talking me out of it, now this!

no i have all the braided fittings for all my fuel lines, but the crappy clamp fittings on the fuel rail. and i smell petrol!

haha stop picking on me troy! :)

you bag me out what ever i want, when i first suggested the GTRS you were talking me out of it, now this!

no i have all the braided fittings for all my fuel lines, but the crappy clamp fittings on the fuel rail. and i smell petrol!

lol...sorry :Oops:

Feel free to give me sh1t, your car = making good power and running :P

For all my talk and advice = car dead and sitting idle ;)

If i may ask a similar question....if you are chasing decent HP...when does the std rb20 fuel rail become a bit of a concern?

Ive got the rb31det in and running....gt35/40r and manifold due any day :P Im considering replacing the fuel line and rail as well....braided line etc. Is there any difference between the aftermarket fuel rails and the std nissan ones??...besides 12 years of development ;)

If i may ask a similar question....if you are chasing decent HP...when does the std rb20 fuel rail become a bit of a concern?

 

Ive got the rb31det in and running....gt35/40r and manifold due any day :P Im considering replacing the fuel line and rail as well....braided line etc. Is there any difference between the aftermarket fuel rails and the std nissan ones??...besides 12 years of development ;)

If the aftermarket rail has duel feeds then id say they coudl be a good thing in ensuring equal flow to all injectors. If they are simply shiny and anodised i think you will find that the std rail aint that bad a thing....plenty of ppl seem to make do with big power, and id imagine bumping up fuel pressire rail with adj regs also helps the std rail

NOTE: this is conjecture...im only offering thoughts. :headspin:

well apparently there is a different feed internally, but the main advantage is having the good fuel fittings and getting rid of those crappy clamps! i guess on a high hp engine you would be better safe than sorry, imagine blowing off the fuel line! ouch

I've not seen fuel line fittings on aftermarket rails . I have seen odd ball EFI hose sizes though , I think it was 7 or 7.5mm . A problem may exist in metric and imperial hose size . I suspect there's plenty of imperial hose on metric fittings . One example I know is that FJ20 hose tail injectors need the 7 or 7.5mm to seal properly under the clamps . I definately don't like rising rate fuel pressure regulators , to me this is a band aid for undersized injectors . Also running the system out of regulation (ie non constant head of fuel pressure over manifold pressure) creates tuning difficulties . In my opinion the use of factory style hose and fittings (of good quality in good condition and correct size)) should work . If the aftermarket rail has some extra function that works buy it . If not the only the factor of lightening your wallet will make it go any better .

Cheers A .

where can you get a "trick alloy" rail made here in Adelaide Clint?

Motec agents/dealers sell fuel rail by the length, measure your standard rail and then take the Motec rail and your standard rail along to any machine shop. Nine holes later (three threaded), add brackets and it's done. There is no magic in a fuel rail, it's just a piece of pipe with holes in it.

BTW I am up to 625 bhp on the standard RB26 fuel rail, I am about to change the fittings though. Fred also seemed to think the standard rail was pretty good, the Gibson boys changed the fittings and the lines to braided. But the rail itself is a standard RB26 fuel rail. Note that they ran a mechanical fuel pump with fuel pressure between 115 psi and 145 psi (depending on boost).

GibsonEngine4.jpg

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