Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, with the extractors that you place on your car what do they actually do like in performance wise because i have been told many stories about that they dont do much or they dont do anything and like they give you heaps of power and stuff like that but i am unsure of what it actually does.? thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have yet to fit mine as im still saving up a bit of $$ to get them ceramic coated (not to mention find someone who does ceramic coating) But once fitting extractors, your power figure may not jump up, but a lot meatier, more useable band of torque through the lower-midrange of the power delivery should be expected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1007457
Share on other sites

i didnt find a huge increase in power uptop when i got my extractors fitted, but the power in mid range was increased 10 fold. It makes the car so much more fun to drive and gives it alot nicer crispier exhaust not, u wont be dissapointed. If i was ever to buy another NA car extractors would be the first mod i did to it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1007498
Share on other sites

i find my mandrel bent fujitsubo's to be a godsend...

a) the car revs a lot better, not as restricted as a standard manifold

B) makes the exhaust note really good (not so good when you don't have a resonator)

c) looks really nice under the bonnet when they're stainless steel :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1007540
Share on other sites

A guy I know got a 13 rwkw gain when he got extractors and a 2 1/2" exhaust system on his R34 .

I have extracors and 2 1/2" exhaust system, on my R33 GTS25. I would totally recommend them, the car pulls very well through mid range and keeps pulling till red line.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1008785
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
Hey guys looking at getting a set of hurricane extractors, just wondering if anyone on here has them? And if so what are they like?

RB25DE EXTRACTORS NEEDED .

Hurricane extractors , hmm , haven,t heard of them . do you have pics or where you can get them .

Also the fujitsubo extractors anybody know where you can get them or at least a pic of them

I modified a set of rb30e extractors to fit , but would prefer bigger primaries .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1368911
Share on other sites

Yeah when i was fixing my exhaust i got them to check one last time for any extractors other than Coby and they found a place in Sydney that does RB25DE extractors by Hurricane. I've heard of the brand just havn't seen a pic and don't knwo anythign about them. I wasn't expecting anyone else to do extractors for non-turbo's. Obvioulsy they're mild steel but i'll find out a little more about them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1369769
Share on other sites

i ddint realise the rb30 extractors could be modified to fit the rb25de. Any pics? How easy was it to do dondesoto??

Cheers

Paul

not a real simple fix

went to an exhaust shop and they profile cut some new flanges useing the cast iron rb25de manifold as a template

then i fitted the flanges to the head to align to ports

put flat washers on the manifold studs then tack welded the flat washers to the flanges . that way your flanges are aligned as best as possible . at this stage i ported the flanges to match perfectly to the heads ports .

i then cut the flanges off the rb30e extractors .

to get the pipes to line up with the flanges , i had to cut the secondary pipe that is fed by the 3 front cyls then rejoin .

tack welded the pipes to the flanges

removed extractors from engine and welded it all back together .

now if i had my camera i would do some pics , but its not here so if you are still interested i,ll post some later ( there are 2 pics of my engines in my profile but dont show exhaust very clearly )

much easier to buy a manufactured set , but i allready had the rb30e extractors from the previous engine

the local exhaust shop was willing to make me a set for $650 , another place called Gonzo pipes said $ 900 but people tell me he is the best

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1371076
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

the snakes help heaps ! trust me ! my old rb25de had a set of killer genie snakes on her, a quality simota air filter on it & a turbo muffler and the turbo boys used to have no chance !

my mates dad had a r33gtst that was boosted to 2 bar and over the first like 300 metres i had him cold !

for the measy outlay of $739 fitted, it really gives you a kick in the pants as opposed to one with standard exhaust.

Gotta fly guys, got turbo butts to kick !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50705-extractors/#findComment-1389739
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...