Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm does anyone know if Type R integras pull hard? my mate said he nearly got done by one and he has a R33 gts-t.  The integra was the new model one. (with the copy cat skyline lights at the back)

the new type R's will give any stock 33gtst a run for their money. i was just under a car length ahead in mine till i put it in third and we stopped there at 80. was no point goin any faster on public roads and we had fun even though it lasted a couple secs. much respect to the new type R.

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

AWD is available in the US and kicks most nissan and other  :Oops: butt.

Hey, I own a Starion as well. :D

contray to popular belief overseas..

the DSM cars are not all what they would appear to be.

sure, they have 4WD and a turbo inline 4 based off the 4G63.

and unless you get a turbo upgrade (which can cost thousands here) your DSM is not going anywhere. true, lots of boost on the stock turbine is good too, but it can only take the car so far. the size of the turbo is what i'd call tiny (with the housing, it's only about as big as a CD). on a side note, the 2nd gen DSM uses a T25 turbine.

the engines also have their fair share of problems, mainly crankwalk (which occurs in 2nd generation DSMs). crankwalk is when the crankshaft moves out of place naturally, perhaps due to an engineering miscalculation ? this basically renders the engine as junk.

i don't have much faith in these cars, they're ugly, they've been riced out, and they're heavy as $#*$ too. it'll pull on me in a 1/4mile, but from a rolling start; it doesn't stand a chance. my friend's EG civic with a b16a(cable clutch version too)with bolt-ons can outrun an equivalently modified Eclipse GSX (turbo 4wd model) from a rolling start.

(on a side note, i think i would've rather had chosen the FTO GPX over the Eagle Talon/Mistubishi Eclipse...but then again, on paper, it looks very much like a Honda Prelude with a 2000cc V6 as opposed the Prelude's 2200cc inline 4.....and good god, don't even talk about Preludes)

and on a side note:

i haven't driven, let alone even seen a Skyline or FTO in my life..but, i already know the easiest answer to the thread starter..you got burned, simply because the FTO had an advantage over you:

-less weight (still less than you and your sister...even when he has a full car load)

-doesn't the FTO rev higher...i remember seeing somewhere online that it peaks right before 8000rpm

-it was probably heavily modified, i've seen/met up with plenty of cars like that in Canada....you think they're slow, then they show their true potential (stock looking MKIII Supra turbo making 630rwhp) and it leaves you scratching your head...or at least feeling like an idiot for even trying to race.

Man i don't know why all your N/a are so slow.

ive got a 1994 GTS25 5 speed, all that i have done to it is K&N filter, when i got it, it had a exhaust and thats all that i know of. no extractors. its got 4ws and a LSD.

and i am yet to loose a race to a V6 commodore or falcon.

ive raced 3 r32 GTS-t got to about 120km/h and i was 1 1/2 car lenghts in front of them.

raced a 5L VN Calais with extractors and exhaust and left him about 1 car lenght behind me as soon as i got out of second.

ive raced a BA XR6 N/A same as above.

on a cold day me car does 0-100km/h in anywhere form 6.5- 6.9 seconds. thats if i change gears on time.

Pffft I could take Falcodores in my Twincam Corolla.

The R32 GTS-t's must have been piloted by corpses if you beat them.

BA XR6...too fat and slow to even try to be fast.

Man i don't know why all your N/a are so slow.

ive got a 1994 GTS25 5 speed, all that i have done to it is K&N filter, when i got it, it had a exhaust and thats all that i know of. no extractors. its got 4ws and a LSD.

and i am yet to loose a race to a V6 commodore or falcon.

ive raced 3 r32 GTS-t got to about 120km/h and i was 1 1/2 car lenghts in front of them.

raced a 5L VN Calais with extractors and exhaust and left him about 1 car lenght behind me as soon as i got out of second.

ive raced a BA XR6 N/A same as above.

on a cold day me car does 0-100km/h in anywhere form 6.5- 6.9 seconds. thats if i change gears on time.

The only waty your gts could keep up with a V6 commodore if the commodore wasnt even trying. There is no way in hell that you could beat a R32 gts-t in a gts. In your dreams it doesnt count.

and you probably measured your 0-100 on a timer that stops at 6 seconds and couldnt go any further.

:bs!:

give me a couple of months krzysiu, and I'll kick your skanky ass in my R32 GTS :cheers: (never mind the RB25DET and the TD06 25G that's sitting under the bonnet)

and kaz141, mate grow up and stop racing old people on the street... :D

mate own a EK4 with full exhaust (4-1 mainfold, high flow cat, cannon exhaust) and run 16" TE37.

I run him a while ago and suprise me how quick a N/A 1.6 car can be.

rolling start in second and at the time i change into 3 he still manage to keep his car in about 1 car lengh behind.

i "think" it will eat the FTO & N/A gts.

sure the type R is even better.

The Jap spec new Type R (DC5R) is faster than DC2R in both straight line and track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.
    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
×
×
  • Create New...