Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm does anyone know if Type R integras pull hard? my mate said he nearly got done by one and he has a R33 gts-t.  The integra was the new model one. (with the copy cat skyline lights at the back)

the new type R's will give any stock 33gtst a run for their money. i was just under a car length ahead in mine till i put it in third and we stopped there at 80. was no point goin any faster on public roads and we had fun even though it lasted a couple secs. much respect to the new type R.

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

AWD is available in the US and kicks most nissan and other  :Oops: butt.

Hey, I own a Starion as well. :D

contray to popular belief overseas..

the DSM cars are not all what they would appear to be.

sure, they have 4WD and a turbo inline 4 based off the 4G63.

and unless you get a turbo upgrade (which can cost thousands here) your DSM is not going anywhere. true, lots of boost on the stock turbine is good too, but it can only take the car so far. the size of the turbo is what i'd call tiny (with the housing, it's only about as big as a CD). on a side note, the 2nd gen DSM uses a T25 turbine.

the engines also have their fair share of problems, mainly crankwalk (which occurs in 2nd generation DSMs). crankwalk is when the crankshaft moves out of place naturally, perhaps due to an engineering miscalculation ? this basically renders the engine as junk.

i don't have much faith in these cars, they're ugly, they've been riced out, and they're heavy as $#*$ too. it'll pull on me in a 1/4mile, but from a rolling start; it doesn't stand a chance. my friend's EG civic with a b16a(cable clutch version too)with bolt-ons can outrun an equivalently modified Eclipse GSX (turbo 4wd model) from a rolling start.

(on a side note, i think i would've rather had chosen the FTO GPX over the Eagle Talon/Mistubishi Eclipse...but then again, on paper, it looks very much like a Honda Prelude with a 2000cc V6 as opposed the Prelude's 2200cc inline 4.....and good god, don't even talk about Preludes)

and on a side note:

i haven't driven, let alone even seen a Skyline or FTO in my life..but, i already know the easiest answer to the thread starter..you got burned, simply because the FTO had an advantage over you:

-less weight (still less than you and your sister...even when he has a full car load)

-doesn't the FTO rev higher...i remember seeing somewhere online that it peaks right before 8000rpm

-it was probably heavily modified, i've seen/met up with plenty of cars like that in Canada....you think they're slow, then they show their true potential (stock looking MKIII Supra turbo making 630rwhp) and it leaves you scratching your head...or at least feeling like an idiot for even trying to race.

Man i don't know why all your N/a are so slow.

ive got a 1994 GTS25 5 speed, all that i have done to it is K&N filter, when i got it, it had a exhaust and thats all that i know of. no extractors. its got 4ws and a LSD.

and i am yet to loose a race to a V6 commodore or falcon.

ive raced 3 r32 GTS-t got to about 120km/h and i was 1 1/2 car lenghts in front of them.

raced a 5L VN Calais with extractors and exhaust and left him about 1 car lenght behind me as soon as i got out of second.

ive raced a BA XR6 N/A same as above.

on a cold day me car does 0-100km/h in anywhere form 6.5- 6.9 seconds. thats if i change gears on time.

Pffft I could take Falcodores in my Twincam Corolla.

The R32 GTS-t's must have been piloted by corpses if you beat them.

BA XR6...too fat and slow to even try to be fast.

Man i don't know why all your N/a are so slow.

ive got a 1994 GTS25 5 speed, all that i have done to it is K&N filter, when i got it, it had a exhaust and thats all that i know of. no extractors. its got 4ws and a LSD.

and i am yet to loose a race to a V6 commodore or falcon.

ive raced 3 r32 GTS-t got to about 120km/h and i was 1 1/2 car lenghts in front of them.

raced a 5L VN Calais with extractors and exhaust and left him about 1 car lenght behind me as soon as i got out of second.

ive raced a BA XR6 N/A same as above.

on a cold day me car does 0-100km/h in anywhere form 6.5- 6.9 seconds. thats if i change gears on time.

The only waty your gts could keep up with a V6 commodore if the commodore wasnt even trying. There is no way in hell that you could beat a R32 gts-t in a gts. In your dreams it doesnt count.

and you probably measured your 0-100 on a timer that stops at 6 seconds and couldnt go any further.

:bs!:

give me a couple of months krzysiu, and I'll kick your skanky ass in my R32 GTS :cheers: (never mind the RB25DET and the TD06 25G that's sitting under the bonnet)

and kaz141, mate grow up and stop racing old people on the street... :D

mate own a EK4 with full exhaust (4-1 mainfold, high flow cat, cannon exhaust) and run 16" TE37.

I run him a while ago and suprise me how quick a N/A 1.6 car can be.

rolling start in second and at the time i change into 3 he still manage to keep his car in about 1 car lengh behind.

i "think" it will eat the FTO & N/A gts.

sure the type R is even better.

The Jap spec new Type R (DC5R) is faster than DC2R in both straight line and track

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...