Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seriously dude.... I own a done up civic..up till now, i let my girlfriend drive it around..i have spent alot of time and money on this civic to the point that it matched up the price of my Skyline...bought my skyline 4 months after i got the civic...not really planning on getting another car...but i saw this silver one on the street and i was like.." mamamia" and it's for sale...just thought maybe i take it for a test drive..so i did...and after that...i took her home 5 days later.

here's what you can do ---> take a skyline for a spin and you'd know what i mean.

if you're thinking of buying a civic and do things up yourself...i suggest get a skyline..you can do alot with a Skyline without being rice.

Skyline eat rice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009487
Share on other sites

leech_: yer i'll go ask on a ford or holden website see what they say LOL

nismo33: i doubt i'd be able to do it up straight away apart from a sound system and be having it stock for awhile til i get some more $$$ and your skyline is an R33 course i take that over a civic anyday! hahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009508
Share on other sites

Not really man, im 22 with 0% no claim bonus and Famous Classic Car Insurance quoted me $2200 for my r32 gtst, which i think is dirt cheap for this vehicle...

If you do end up getting a civic *shakes head* then it better be a vtec model...they sound sweeeeet with a rampod when the vtec kicks in about 5tho rpm

and if you dont get that then your just silly haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009529
Share on other sites

if your insurance be $2200 mine be like through the roof! haha i'm more into a car with looks for now then when i get my full license i'd get a car for speed. if i don't get a civic now i'll get the R32 in december for sure, just in time for summer holiday too! be like cruising everyday! ahahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009557
Share on other sites

I pay $960 p.a full comp rating 1, market value $15,500.

There's two types of people.

Rev heads and non-rev heads. :)

The rev heads when on a budget will buy a car that has potential to be its quickest.

The non rev heads are the pretty boys who like to make an impression.

As you get more money these merge. :D

i.e... I bought an ugly TE cortina back when I was 16.5, slapped on a holly mild cam and 2.5" exhaust. Thing went like the clappers.

5 gearbox's and 1 diff later. :D

It went hard and used to have no problems pulling away from what then was a sicko VN V8 commodore as did it have no problems leaving my mates RX7 Series III 13B N/A.

Good fun car that was. Loads of low down torque. Peak power was made at just before 5000rpm. Slightly loopy idle. :D

Its your first car.. Get some thing that hauls arse.

These days you should be able to pick up a cheapish V8 of some sort. Drop a cam in to it and get it going hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009564
Share on other sites

I gotta disagree, Rev-heads and non rev-heads both equally want to make an impression, just in different ways, every person has a desire to be noticed and appreciated by others, so if you're a rev-head you just want it in a different way, but it's all the same thing, doesn't make you any better.

Personally out of the two options, well I think r32's are a little long in the tooth and don't exactly look too modern nowdays. I mean they looks late 80's.

On the other hand, a civic is a shitty little hatchback that does at least look relatively current model-ish but on the other hand looks stoopid all done up with some giant exhaust on the back. I mean it's not a sportscar, it's not a Type-r hot hatch so why bother making it something it's not.

I'd save up for an r33 a bit more probably.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009605
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...