Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

undo'ing one of the links will take the sway bar out of the equation as it effectively means its just hanging off one side and not under any tension

i have the same problem as you, caused from the same thing (gutter), and unfortunately i know what the problem is.... bent chassis rail :D

anyone know how much it would cost to get it straightened out if i remove all the necessary parts for a panel beater to get to the rail ?! sorry bit off topic..

I'm not sure if this is the same sort of problem, but mine was weird

but when I had the std suspension taken out of my 32 GTST it was leaning to the right. put new shocks and springs in, made the height adjustment and it still didn't help

In the end the guy had to have a custom bracket made up to bring the right side up to the height as the left

mark

i might have to see the guys down at fulcrum ( spelling?). when installing the top arms what would cause one of the bolt holes to be out of alignment? when i put the stock items back in after the adjustable ones died, i put the bolt through the one at the back then tried to put the bolt through the one at the front and it was out by about 5mm. anyone?

  • 4 weeks later...

ok i know its been awhile but i have been busy. went down to fulcrum this morning and they didn't even pickup on the height difference. and here is the specs sheet they gave me.

There are whole pile of little issues that I can see, not one big one. I have read back through this thread and I can't see the rear height measurements. I know the front is 380/350 (L/R) but what is the rear?

With that information, I will write up what I suggest you do and what settings you need.:)

quick check , have you got the 'a' s on the front upper arms on the outside of the car, the arms only go in one way. Also they have to be torqued up when the car is at normal road height, possibly they may not have tightened one of them properly.

Also is there any packing behind the plates that the top arms mount too - on the body, maybe someone has tried to adjust the camber that way.

Stephen

no.. i completly took off the adjustable arms and then fitted standard items and there was nothing there.. when the left side went in it didn't line up with the outside bolt, i had to twist the arm to get it to line up.. and yes the arms have the a to the outside of the car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead. I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it. Hopefully yours is sorted now.
    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
×
×
  • Create New...